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Vegetables from Taiwan
Fu cai is the middle of three Hakka mustard products. Mustard is first salted and trodden into sour suan cai, then part-dried in the sun, torn into strips, stuffed into bottles that are turned upside down to drain, and sealed to ferment for months. Dried fully instead, the same greens become mei gan cai.
| Whole mustard greens (Brassica juncea) | [tsao2019] |
| Salt | Layered with the greens for the first stage[tsao2019] |
| Starter | spontaneous |
Total time across the recorded steps: 4.3 months – 6.6 months
What changes: Whole mustard plants wilt in the sun until soft
Output: soft, wilted greens.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Fu cai is the middle of three Hakka mustard products. Mustard is first salted and trodden into sour suan cai, then part-dried in the sun, torn into strips, stuffed into bottles that are turned upside down to drain, and sealed to ferment for months. Dried fully instead, the same greens become mei gan cai. Made in 5 steps over 4.3 months – 6.6 months. The longest step, tear into strips, stuff into bottles and turn them over, takes 4–6 months (Tsao Ming-tsung 2019). Salt is 2.3–7.9 % (Chiang P.-D. 2007). Lactic acid bacteria of 5 genera and 18 species across the stages and Leuconostoc mesenteroides, L. pseudomesenteroides, Weissella cibaria, W. paramesenteroides and Lactobacillus farciminis do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 4–6 monthsReported[tsao2019] | Tear into strips, stuff into bottles and turn them over |
|---|---|---|
| Salt | 2.3–7.9 %Measured[chiang2007] | Layer with salt, tread, weight with stones and seal (suan cai) |
| Acidity | pH 3.8–4.3Measured[chiang2007] | Layer with salt, tread, weight with stones and seal (suan cai) |
The bottle is turned upside down to drain the greens before it is sealed, which gives fu cai (覆, "turn over") its name; the lucky homophone 福 is used in writing.
The first stage, commercial Taiwanese suan cai, measured pH 3.8 to 4.3 and 2.3 % to 7.9 % salt in a thesis abstract (Chiang 2007). Those figures describe the sour stage, not finished fu cai.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Taiwanese Hakka grew mustard in the fallow period between rice crops and pickled it to keep it, and one harvest gave suan cai, fu cai and mei gan cai (Tsao 2019). In 2009 Chao and colleagues counted the lactic bacteria at five stages of suan-tsai and fu-tsai. In 2012 the same group named a new species, Lactobacillus futsaii, from these products.
