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Fermentation Atlas

Alcoholic drinks from Shaoxing, Zhejiang, China

Shaoxing huangjiu, Yuanhong (dry); base flow for Shaoxing wines绍兴酒

Glutinous rice is soaked for weeks, steamed, and brewed in winter with wheat qu and a yeast mother. Moulds make sugar while yeast makes alcohol in the same raked vat; the mash then ferments for at least 80 days in clay jars, is pressed, heated and sealed in jars to age. Made in 9 steps over 3.1 months – 3.5 months. The longest step, slow ferment in clay jars (houjiao), takes at least 2.6 months (Zhejiang Liquor Industry Association (drafted…) and runs at up to 20 °C (Zhejiang Liquor Industry Association (drafted…). Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Aspergillus do most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main stepat least 2.6 monthsSet[sx-spec][cn-mission]Slow ferment in clay jars (houjiao)
Temperatureup to 20 °CSet[sx-spec]Slow ferment in clay jars (houjiao)
Fully documentedAlcoholic drinks3.1 months – 3.5 monthsChinese geographical-indication product under GB/T 17946-2008; also protected in the EU under the EU–China geographical indications agreementMore alcoholic drinksMore from China

Recipe

No fixed amounts recordedTraditional process. The Shaoxing production rules set times and temperatures and say the rice, water, qu and yeast mother go in "by the recipe standard", but they publish no batch ratios, so none are given here.
Glutinous rice · Soaked, then steamed[sx-spec]
Jianhu lake water · The production rules require Jianhu water for brewing[sx-spec][cn-mission]
Wheat qu (maiqu) · Crushed wheat cakes grown with moulds; makes the sugar[sx-spec]
Yeast mother (linfan jiumu) · A fermented rice mash started with jiuyao rice-cake starter; carries the yeast[sx-spec]
Starter: koji/qu/mold-starter (wheat qu plus a jiuyao-based yeast mother)

Total time across the recorded steps: 3.1 months – 3.5 months

Start
Drag the bar or press Play
Close-up: water moving into a grainshapes, not to countLactic acid bacteria

What changes: The rice soaks under water for weeks while lactic bacteria sour the water

Step 1 of 9
Soak the glutinous rice
Time
9–18 days
Set
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Lactic acid bacteria
Yeasts
Saccharomyces cerevisiae
Aspergillus wheat
Rhizopus

A 2022 review gives 16–20 days for traditional soaking. Output: soaked rice and sour soak water.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
grains swell and soften
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

lactic bacteria sour the soak water

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

What makes this one different

Shaoxing wine is a winter brew. Rice soaks for weeks, a wheat qu and a separately grown yeast mother work together in an open vat raked by hand, and the mash ferments for at least 80 days in clay jars outdoors. Yuanhong is the dry base; jiafan, shanniang and xiangxue change the rice, the water or the spirit added.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Jiafan (huadiao)Semi-dry; more rice for a fuller body; traditional primary maximum 37 °C.
  • ShanniangSemi-sweet; brewed with yuanhong wine and rice-soak water in place of water.
  • XiangxueSweet; lees spirit (zaoshao) is added after about 24 h of saccharification, and it can be brewed in any season.

Made the shaoxing huangjiu, yuanhong way

Safety

Ethyl carbamate and biogenic amines are the main chemical hazards in huangjiu, and careful process control keeps them down. Health Canada sets a maximum level for ethyl carbamate of 30 ppb for rice wines other than sake. WHO says no level of alcohol use is safe for health.

Hazards the sources name: Staphylococcus and Enterobacter, among the ten most common bacterial genera in one Shaoxing fermentation; Lactic bacteria that form biogenic amines such as histamine.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Shaoxing huangjiu is recorded in writings from the Spring and Autumn and Warring States periods. Jianhu lake dates from the Eastern Han dynasty, and Shaoxing brewing was put on China's national intangible cultural heritage list in 2006.

  1. [sx-spec] Zhejiang Liquor Industry Association (drafted by Guyuelongshan and Pagoda), group standard draft 绍兴酒(绍兴黄酒)酿造工艺技术规范 (revision of DB330624/T 09—2004), 2025spec
  2. [sx-core] Shaoxing Yuecheng District Market Supervision Bureau, draft group standard 绍兴核心产区黄酒酿造传统工艺生产技术规范 (T/ZS), 2024spec
  3. [gbt17946] GB/T 17946-2008, 地理标志产品 绍兴酒(绍兴黄酒); top-grade limits and 20 measured yuanhong samples as tabulated in the explanatory note to the 2025 brewing-process draftspec
  4. [cn-mission] Mission of the People's Republic of China to the EU 2021, 绍兴酒:中欧地理标志协定产品推介(八)gov
  5. [tian2022] Tian S., Zeng W., Fang F., Zhou J., Du G. 2022, The microbiome of Chinese rice wine (Huangjiu), Current Research in Food Science 5:325–335paper
  6. [healthcanada-ec] Health Canada 2025, Notice of proposal P-CON-25-01, maximum levels for ethyl carbamate in alcoholic beverages (rice wines other than sake fall under the 30 ppb wine level)gov
  7. [who2023] WHO Regional Office for Europe 2023, No level of alcohol consumption is safe for our health (statement published in The Lancet Public Health; news release, 4 January 2023)gov