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Cheese from Hungary
Cow, sheep or goat milk is set with a lactic starter and rennet, drained, shaped and salted into a semi-hard cheese with irregular curd holes, eaten fresh or after a short ripening. Shepherds once warmed sheep milk to udder warmth in a kettle, renneted it, pressed the curd in a cloth on a pressing table and dried the cheese in the open air or over a gentle smoke.
| Cow, sheep or goat milk or a mix; may include partly skimmed milk, cream or milk powder | [me-2104] |
| Lactic acid bacteria starter culture | [me-2104] |
| Rennet | Shepherds used dried, spoon or whey rennet made from animal stomach[me-2104][mnl] |
| Salt | [me-2104] |
| Calcium chloride; potassium or sodium nitrate (optional) | Nitrate at most 75 mg/kg of cheese milk, as sodium nitrite[me-2104] |
| Starter | lactic acid bacteria starter culture (codex) |
Total time across the recorded steps: 7 days
What changes: Milk is warmed, then rennet goes in; the codex also names a lactic starter
The codex names a lactic starter and rennet, a rennet or mixed rennet-acid set. Shepherds warmed the day's sheep milk in a kettle over a slow fire to udder warmth before renneting.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Cow, sheep or goat milk is set with a lactic starter and rennet, drained, shaped and salted into a semi-hard cheese with irregular curd holes, eaten fresh or after a short ripening. Shepherds once warmed sheep milk to udder warmth in a kettle, renneted it, pressed the curd in a cloth on a pressing table and dried the cheese in the open air or over a gentle smoke. Made in 5 steps over 7 days. The longest step, eat fresh or dry briefly, takes at least 7 days (Remete Farkas L. 2019). Salt is 1–2 % (Magyar Élelmiszerkönyv (Codex Alimentarius Hu…).
| Main step | at least 7 daysReported[farkas2019] | Eat fresh or dry briefly |
|---|---|---|
| Salt | 1–2 %Set[me-2104] | Salt |
The codex defines it as a semi-hard, full-fat cheese with irregular holes, made by draining, shaping and salting, and eaten fresh or after a short ripening. In the shepherds' method the curd was drained in a cloth, pressed in a round form and dried in the open air or over a gentle smoke.
The codex allows nitrate in the cheese milk at no more than 75 mg/kg, expressed as sodium nitrite.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The Hungarian Ethnographic Lexicon describes the same method among Hungarian, Slovak, Carpatho-Ukrainian and Romanian shepherds. Their sheep milk was warmed, renneted, pressed and dried into sajt or gomolya. Balogh (2025) writes that the most common cheese of the Carpathian Basin's rennet cheese-making system is the sheep-milk cheese called gomolya or gömölye, eaten both fresh and mature.
