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Fermentation Atlas

Cereals and bread from South India and Sri Lanka

Idliஇட்லி

Rice and dehulled black gram are soaked, ground and left overnight with a little salt. Lactic acid bacteria from the grains sour the batter and fill it with gas, and the risen batter is steamed in moulds into soft, spongy cakes. Made in 4 steps over 16 h – 20 h. The longest step, add salt and ferment overnight, takes 12–15 h (Rekha C.R 2011) and runs at 20–30 °C (Ghosh D 2011). Salt is 2 % (Ghosh D 2011). Weissella and Leuconostoc mesenteroides do most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main step12–15 hReported[rekha2011][mandhania2019][cftri-batter]Add salt and ferment overnight
Temperature20–30 °CMeasured[ghosh2011][mandhania2019][cftri-batter]Add salt and ferment overnight
Salt2 %Reported[ghosh2011]Add salt and ferment overnight
AciditypH 5.9–6.3 → 4.2Measured[ghosh2011][rekha2011][mandhania2019]Add salt and ferment overnight

Recipe

Amounts from a sourceAmounts are the control batter of Rekha and Vijayalakshmi 2011, which makes a small lab batch. The salt level follows Ghosh and Chattopadhyay 2011. Home cooks scale the same proportions.
90 gRice · Rice grits (soji) in this recipe; parboiled rice in most studies[rekha2011]
30 gDehulled black gram (urad dal) · Rice to black gram 3:1; studies use 2:1 to 4:1[rekha2011][ghosh2011]
120 mlWater · To soak the black gram; more is added as needed to grind[rekha2011]
2% of the rice and black gram weightSalt[ghosh2011]
No starter · The bacteria come in on the grains[fao138][mukherjee1965]
Starterspontaneous

Total time across the recorded steps: 16 h – 20 h

Start
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Close-up: water moving into a grain28–30 °Cshapes, not to countLactic acid bacteria

What changes: Water soaks into the rice and black gram and softens them

Step 1 of 4
Wash and soak rice and black gram separately
Time
4–5 h
Reported
Temperature
28–30 °C
Reported
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Lactic acid bacteria
Leuconostoc
Weissella make
Enterococcus
Pediococcus

Output: soft, swollen grains.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

the lactic acid bacteria on the grains begin to multiply while they soak

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

What makes this one different

Idli is leavened by bacteria rather than yeast. Leuconostoc and Weissella make the gas, which was the first leavening ever traced to a lactic acid bacterium alone. The rice is ground coarse and the black gram fine, and the batter is steamed, where dosa batter is ground fine and cooked thin on a griddle.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Rava idliSemolina with curd and baking soda; quick, not a microbial ferment.
  • Thatte idliLarge, flat, plate-sized idli from Karnataka.
  • Kanchipuram idliSpiced with pepper, cumin, ginger and ghee; steamed in leaf-lined cylinders.
  • Moode idli (khotte kadubu)Steamed in cones of screwpine or jackfruit leaves, which add their aroma.
  • Sanna (Goa, Mangalore Konkani)Rice batter leavened with toddy (palm wine), sometimes with coconut.

Safety

Overnight fermentation runs at 20–32 °C, the range where Bacillus cereus grows best (28–35 °C, FDA). It cannot grow below pH 4.9, and well-fermented batter reaches about pH 4.2–4.6 by 12–18 h. Cooking kills the bacteria but may not destroy toxin already made, so do not leave unsoured batter or cooked idli warm for long. Refrigerate leftover batter at 4 °C (40 °F) or lower, and do not taste raw batter, since flour and grain can carry Salmonella and E. coli (FDA).

Hazards the sources name: Enterobacteriaceae including Escherichia-Shigella, Klebsiella and Cronobacter (detected by sequencing; fall after the first 6 h); Bacillus cereus (spore-former linked with rice and other starchy foods).

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

The Kannada text Vaddaradhane (920 CE) names iddalige made from black gram alone. A recipe that adds rice, a long fermentation and steaming appears only after about 1250 CE.

  1. [ghosh2011] Ghosh D., Chattopadhyay P. 2011, Preparation of idli batter, its properties and nutritional improvement during fermentation, Journal of Food Science and Technology 48(5):610–615, doi:10.1007/s13197-010-0148-4paper
  2. [rekha2011] Rekha C.R., Vijayalakshmi G. 2011, Accelerated fermentation of idli batter using soy residue okara, Journal of Food Science and Technology 48(3):329–334, doi:10.1007/s13197-011-0248-9paper
  3. [mandhania2019] Mandhania M.H. et al. 2019, Diversity and succession of microbiota during fermentation of the traditional Indian food idli, Applied and Environmental Microbiology 85(13):e00368-19, doi:10.1128/AEM.00368-19paper
  4. [mukherjee1965] Mukherjee S.K. et al. 1965, Role of Leuconostoc mesenteroides in leavening the batter of idli, a fermented food of India, Applied Microbiology 13(2):227–231paper
  5. [fao138] Haard N.F. et al. 1999, Fermented cereals, a global perspective, FAO Agricultural Services Bulletin 138, chapter 3 (idli, dosa)gov
  6. [cftri-batter] CSIR-Central Food Technological Research Institute, Indian patent 199772, A process for preparation of fermented and dehydrated batter useful for making idli, dosa and like (abstract)other
  7. [fda-bbb] US Food and Drug Administration 2012, Bad Bug Book, 2nd edition, Bacillus cereus and other Bacillus speciesgov
  8. [fda-flour] US Food and Drug Administration, Handling Flour Safely, What You Need to Knowgov
  9. [wp] Wikipedia, Idli (history only, citing Achaya 2003)wiki