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Fish and seafood from Japan

Ika no shiokaraいかの塩辛

Ika no shiokara is squid flesh cut into strips and ripened with its own salted liver. The traditional kind has 10–20 % salt and modern kinds as little as about 5 %. A lab batch with 10 % salt, ripened at 25 °C, reached an edible state by day 5. In lab trials, salt-tolerant Staphylococcus dominates the ripening.

Fully documentedFish and seafood10 days – 30 days

Recipe

Amounts from a sourceThe laboratory shiokara of Mori, Shinano and Akiba (1983), made with 10 % salt and 5 % liver by weight.
Squid flesh, cut into strips[mori1983]
Squid liver5 % (w/w)[mori1983]
Salt10 % (w/w)Traditional shiokara is made with about 10–20 % salt; some modern products have about 5 %[mori1983][maff-shiokara]

Total time across the recorded steps: 10 days – 30 days

Start
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What changes: Squid is cut into strips and the liver is taken out

Step 1 of 4
Cut the squid and take out the liver
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
W. paramesenteroides
Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Ika no shiokara is squid flesh cut into strips and ripened with its own salted liver. The traditional kind has 10–20 % salt and modern kinds as little as about 5 %. A lab batch with 10 % salt, ripened at 25 °C, reached an edible state by day 5. In lab trials, salt-tolerant Staphylococcus dominates the ripening. Made in 4 steps over 10 days – 30 days. The longest step, eat while ripe, takes 5–25 days (Mori K 1983). Salt is 5–20 % (Mori K 1983). Staphylococcus subgroup II (Baird-Parker), dominant through ripening at 10 %, 15 % and 20 % salt and In modern ika-kurozukuri (a related squid shiokara with ink), Staphylococcus saprophyticus dominated one commercial product and Weissella paramesenteroides two others do most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main step5–25 daysMeasured[mori1983]Eat while ripe
Temperature25 °CReported[mori1983]Ripen the mix
Salt5–20 %Reported[mori1983][maff-shiokara]Mix strips, liver and salt

What makes this one different

Shiokara uses the squid's flesh with its own liver, which separates it from shutō, made from bonito guts alone. It ripens for days to weeks, not the months that fish sauces take.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Akazukuri (赤作り)Squid strips with the liver and salt; the most common kind (MAFF).
  • Shirozukuri (白作り)Made from skinned squid; preferred in western Japan (MAFF).
  • Kurozukuri (黒作り)Squid ink added; made mainly in Fukui (MAFF) and a noted product of Toyama (Yokoi et al. 2013).

Safety

Anisakis larvae live in squid and are not killed by salting, vinegar or soy sauce; MHLW advises freezing at −20 °C for 24 hours or more, or heating to 70 °C or above (60 °C for 1 minute), and not eating raw viscera. The liver in this recipe is raw viscera, so freeze the squid first; the US FDA's freezing guidance for fish eaten without cooking is stricter, −20 °C for 7 days. Modern shiokara has much less salt than the traditional kind; a 6 % salt kurozukuri was ripened at 10 °C in a lab trial (Yokoi et al. 2013). The FDA lists Vibrio parahaemolyticus as able to grow at up to 10 % salt in the food's water, so salt at 5–10 % does not stop it, and its lowest growth temperature in the same table is 5 °C. The 25 °C on this page is a lab trial, not a home method, so keep shiokara in the refrigerator.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

A book from the Heian period already mentions shiokara, and salting seafood to keep it probably began even earlier, according to Fujii Takeo of Tokyo Kasei University as reported by MAFF. In Miyagi, households long made their own shiokara.

Starter
The sources we found do not say how its fermentation begins.
  1. [maff-shiokara] MAFF Japan, Nippon dentōshoku zukan, 塩辛 (Miyagi)gov
  2. [mori1983] Mori K., Shinano H., Akiba M. 1983, Studies on the microorganisms in salted and ripened squid meat product (Ika-shiokara) IV, Bulletin of the Faculty of Fisheries, Hokkaido University 34(4):355-360paper
  3. [yokoi2013] Yokoi K., Taketo A., Kodaira K. 2013, The microflora of modern ika-kurozukuri, salted squid with ink and liver, Food Science and Technology Research 19(4):711-715 (abstract)paper
  4. [mhlw-anisakis] MHLW Japan, アニサキスによる食中毒を予防しましょう (Preventing Anisakis food poisoning)gov
  5. [fda-guide] US FDA, Fish and Fishery Products Hazards and Controls Guidance, June 2022 edition, Chapter 5, Parasitesgov
  6. [fda-app4] US FDA, Fish and Fishery Products Hazards and Controls Guidance, Appendix 4, Bacterial pathogen growth and inactivation, Table A-1gov