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Fish and seafood from Japan
Nishin-zuke is Hokkaido's winter pickle of dried herring, daikon, cabbage and carrot with rice koji and salt. The layers sit under a weight for about a month while lactic bacteria from the vegetables sour them. It was once kept outdoors in freezing weather, which gave it a crisp, icy bite.
| Daikon, dried2.5 kg | [maff-recipe] |
| Cabbage2.5 kg | [maff-recipe] |
| Rice koji, soaked in warm water0.2 kg | [maff-recipe] |
| Dried herring strips0.25 kg | [maff-recipe] |
| Carrot0.2 kg | [maff-recipe] |
| Ginger40–50 g | [maff-recipe] |
| Red chillies, seeded and cut small2 or 3 | [maff-recipe] |
| Salt3 % of the weight | [maff-recipe] |
| Starter | koji/qu/mold-starter + vegetable brine as lactic inoculum |
Total time across the recorded steps: 32 days – 33 days
What changes: Dried herring soaks in wood-ash or rice-washing water to soften
Output: softened herring with the harsh taste drawn out.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Nishin-zuke is Hokkaido's winter pickle of dried herring, daikon, cabbage and carrot with rice koji and salt. The layers sit under a weight for about a month while lactic bacteria from the vegetables sour them. It was once kept outdoors in freezing weather, which gave it a crisp, icy bite. Made in 6 steps over 32 days – 33 days. The longest step, weight and ferment, takes 30 days (MAFF Japan) and runs at 5–10 °C (Kikuchi M 1996). Salt is 3 % (MAFF Japan). Lactic acid cocci from the vegetables, about 10^6 per g; lactobacilli 10^3 per g or fewer and Lactobacillus and Leuconostoc, the lactic bacteria in three commercial fish-and-vegetable pickles of unstated type do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 30 daysReported[maff-nisinzuke] | Weight and ferment |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 5–10 °CReported[kikuchi1996] | Weight and ferment |
| Salt | 3 %Reported[maff-recipe] | Layer with koji, salt and chilli |
Nishin-zuke is mostly vegetables, with dried herring for flavour, and it is soured by lactic bacteria from the vegetable brine. Fish narezushi, by contrast, ferments the fish itself with rice.
The pickle changes fast in a warm place, so it was kept outdoors in freezing weather and is now kept in the refrigerator. A laboratory study found 5 °C kept its quality longer than 10 °C. Cold also matters for safety. The recipe's 3 % salt is by weight of the whole mix, and the salt in the water phase is not given, so it cannot be shown to reach the FDA's barrier to type E botulism (at least 5 % salt in the water phase, or pH 5.0 or below). So with fish in the tub keep it cold from the start and all through storage. Reaching pH 5 does not end that. The FDA says these barriers do not stop type A and proteolytic types B and F, and calls for strict refrigeration at or below 4.4 °C. It is close to the izushi that Japan's farm ministry (MAFF) names as a main source of botulism at home, and three commercial fish-and-vegetable pickles measured 1.8–3 % salt and pH 4.6 in their liquid, which is right at the pH 4.6 limit MAFF gives for C. botulinum growth. MAFF gives 3.3 °C as the lowest growth temperature for some strains, so a refrigerator slows this risk but does not remove it.
Hazards the sources name: Enterobacteriaceae among the gram-negative bacteria (10^3–10^4 per ml) in three commercial fish-and-vegetable pickles of unstated type.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Nishin-zuke began in Hokkaido homes between the Edo and Meiji periods, when herring fishing flourished. The catch peaked in the Meiji period at nearly one million tonnes a year. Herring dried in spring was pickled with vegetables in late autumn as a winter staple. The catch fell after about 1955.
