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Fish and seafood from Japan
Nuka-iwashi is the Shōnai coast's sardine pickled in heavy salt and then in rice bran with chilli. The salted fish are packed in bran under a weight, kept cool and dark, and eaten from about two weeks, or ripened for half a year. It was a winter protein store for the snowy mountain villages around Tsuruoka.
| Sardines, headed and gutted | Bought by the box in spring, when sardines were landed along the Shōnai coast[maff-nukaiwasi] |
| Salt, generously; more for fatty fish | [maff-nukaiwasi] |
| Rice bran mixed with seeded, sliced chilli | [maff-nukaiwasi] |
Total time across the recorded steps: 21 days – 6.2 months
What changes: The sardines are headed and gutted
Output: headed, gutted sardines.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Nuka-iwashi is the Shōnai coast's sardine pickled in heavy salt and then in rice bran with chilli. The salted fish are packed in bran under a weight, kept cool and dark, and eaten from about two weeks, or ripened for half a year. It was a winter protein store for the snowy mountain villages around Tsuruoka. Made in 4 steps over 21 days – 6.2 months. The longest step, keep cool and dark to ripen, takes 14 days – 6 months (MAFF Japan). Tetragenococcus muriaticus or T. halophilus, the dominant bacteria in iwashi-nukazuke samples and Salt-loving lactic bacteria (Tetragenococcus) rising to about 10^6 per g, with yeasts at 10^2–10^3 per g, in Ishikawa sardine bran pickles do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 14 days – 6 monthsReported[maff-nukaiwasi] | Keep cool and dark to ripen |
|---|
Nuka-iwashi is salted hard for a week and then buried in bran with only chilli. Ishikawa's sardine bran pickles add koji and pour the salting liquid back over the bran. Fujii (1997) reports those Ishikawa pickles at 30–35 % salt for 7–10 days, then 9.8–14.1 % salt when finished. Nuka-iwashi can be eaten after two weeks.
Fish bran pickles can carry histamine. In a survey funded by Japan's health ministry, of 12 retail fish bran pickles, three of them sardine, 7 held over 400 µg/g histamine, 1 about 200 and 4 almost none. The survey's wider 2021 check of 103 fish products found 5 of 9 bran-cured ones above 200 ppm, the safety indicator the report used. In a laboratory trial, sardine salted at 10 % and given a histamine-forming Tetragenococcus halophilus strain reached 2,800 µg/g in 30 days at 20 °C. Start with fresh fish, salt it heavily and keep it cool. Heating does not remove histamine once formed, so grilling will not fix a bad batch.
Hazards the sources name: Histamine in retail fish bran pickles; 7 of 12 held over 400 µg/g (the 12 included three sardine products).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Sardine drift-net fishing came from Echigo (now Niigata) to Yunohama on the Shōnai coast in the Tenmei era (1781–1789). From early Meiji, big sardine catches and plentiful bran in rice-growing Tsuruoka made nuka-iwashi a winter store for mountain villages; the Tezuka shop began processing it commercially in mid-Meiji.
