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Cheese from Italy, Lazio
Raw ewe milk is set with lamb or kid rennet, broken to rice-grain size and rested under the whey. The curd is scalded with water at 80 °C and pressed into shape by hand, salted, dried for a few days and cold-smoked over apple wood. It is eaten soon after or ripened for up to 80 days. Made in 7 steps over 2.7 months. The longest step, ripen briefly, takes up to 2.6 months (ARSIAL (Lazio regional agency for agricultura…) and runs at 10–12 °C (ARSIAL (Lazio regional agency for agricultura…). Lactic acid bacteria carried by the raw milk does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | up to 2.6 monthsSet[arsial-pressato][onaf-pressato] | Ripen briefly |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 10–12 °CSet[arsial-pressato] | Ripen briefly |
| Raw whole ewe milk · From two to four milkings, filtered through a strainer or cloth; made November to June[arsial-pressato][onaf-pressato] |
| Lamb or kid rennet paste, or liquid rennet[arsial-pressato] |
| Hot water · At 80 °C, poured over the curd before pressing by hand[arsial-pressato] |
| Salt · Dry, or saturated brine[arsial-pressato] |
| Apple wood · Burned for the cold smoke[arsial-pressato][onaf-pressato] |
| Starter: none; no culture is named |
Total time across the recorded steps: 2.7 months
What changes: Rennet goes into raw ewe milk warmed to 38–39 °C and it sets
Output: curd.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
The curd is not left to drain in a basket. It is scalded with near-boiling water and pressed into shape by hand, as Columella described, which gives a texture close to a stretched curd. It is then cold-smoked over apple wood.
The milk is raw and the cheese is soft and moist. The UK NHS advises that soft cheese made from unpasteurised milk be cooked until steaming hot for people at risk, because of Listeria.
Hazards the sources name: Listeria monocytogenes, a risk in soft cheese made from unpasteurised milk; Escherichia coli O157 in raw ewe milk; in a challenge study it was still detectable in pecorino after 90 days of ripening.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The Roman writer Columella describes manu pressum, curd shaped by hand under hot water, hardened in brine and coloured with apple-wood or straw smoke, in book VII of De re rustica, about 50 AD.
