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Soy and legumes from China

Chi (豉), Northern Wei fermented black soybeans豉

The Qimin Yaoshu's chi is unsalted fermented soybeans made at room scale. Boiled beans are heaped in a warm, half-buried shaded room and turned by hand whenever the heap feels as warm as an armpit, until a white and then a yellow mould coat grows. The moulded beans are washed hard and packed into a pit lined and covered with grain chaff for 10 to 15 days until fragrant.

Fully documentedSoy and legumes13 days – 18 days

Recipe

No fixed amounts recordedRoom scale, in dan (a dry measure). The text gives heap sizes, not a small-batch recipe; the Wikisource text names no salt in this main method, although C.P. Li's 1948 summary, quoted by the SoyInfo Center, has the washed beans mixed with salt.
Soybeans, old season's beans preferredAt least 10 dan to a heap so it keeps itself warm; a three-bay room makes 100 dan[qmys-wikisource]
Water for boiling and washing[qmys-wikisource]
Starterspontaneous; the mould coat grows from the room

Total time across the recorded steps: 13 days – 18 days

Start
Drag the bar or press Play

What changes: A warm, shaded room is dug half into the ground and sealed

Step 1 of 7
Build a warm, shaded, half-buried room
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Moulds
Aspergillus

The 4th and 5th months are best, then from the 20th day of the 7th month into the 8th; deep winter and high summer are hard to manage [qmys-wikisource]. Output: incubation room.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

The Qimin Yaoshu's chi is unsalted fermented soybeans made at room scale. Boiled beans are heaped in a warm, half-buried shaded room and turned by hand whenever the heap feels as warm as an armpit, until a white and then a yellow mould coat grows. The moulded beans are washed hard and packed into a pit lined and covered with grain chaff for 10 to 15 days until fragrant. Made in 7 steps over 13 days – 18 days. The longest step, pack into a chaff-lined pit and tread firm, takes 10–15 days (Jia Sixie (賈思勰)). Moulds forming a white coat, then a yellow coat and Aspergillus (the yellow coat, called the yellow robe), as Sakaguchi commented in 1979 do most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main step10–15 daysReported[qmys-wikisource]Pack into a chaff-lined pit and tread firm

What makes this one different

Unlike most later douchi, this chi uses no salt and no added starter, and the whole process is run by touch, by heap depth and by opening and shutting the door [qmys-wikisource]. Modern Aspergillus-type douchi is still made by natural fermentation in a semi-open space [guo2025].

Related ferments

Variants

  • Shijing salted chi (《食經》作豉法)5th–8th month; beans soaked overnight, steamed until the skin breaks; spread 2 cun deep under 2 cun of green cogon grass for 3 days until all yellow; furrowed 3 days; mixed with thick bean broth, 5 sheng of glutinous-millet "women's qu" and 5 sheng of salt per dan; packed in a jar topped with mulberry leaves and mud-sealed in the courtyard 27 days; steamed and sun-dried three times.
  • Household chi (作家理食豉法)Cooked beans under fresh cogon grass 14 days until yellow; dried, wetted, jarred in a fire-heated pit under 3 cun of mulberry leaves about 10 days; steamed and dried three times.
  • Wheat chi (作麥豉法)7th–8th month; steamed wheat flour grows a coat in 7 days, is sprinkled with salt water, steamed again and kept warm in a jar buried in straw and dung 14 days until black and fragrant; shaped into small cakes and hung; one cake is boiled several times for broth; "better than bean chi".

Safety

The text warns that chi is hard to make well and easy to spoil; overheated beans turn into a stinking mud that "even pigs and dogs will not eat", and chilled ones taste bad even when rewarmed [qmys-wikisource]. The mould grows by itself, with no starter added. A 2025 study of Aspergillus-type douchi says that the uncontrollable, spontaneous nature of the fermentation can lead to inconsistent quality and potential food safety issues [guo2025]. A review of Aspergillus species says that many strains of Aspergillus flavus make aflatoxin and that A. flavus has been mistaken for the koji mould Aspergillus oryzae, which does not [frisvad2018]. Treat the text as a historical record, not a safe home recipe.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Chapter 72 of the Qimin Yaoshu (作豉法第七十二) gives this method together with a Shijing recipe and two shorter household recipes [qmys-wikisource]. The book was written by Jia Sixie, an official of the Northern Wei, and is believed to have been completed in 544 CE or between 533 and 544 [wp-qmys]. The SoyInfo Center calls it the earliest existing description of making soy nuggets and dates it to about AD 535 [sic-nuggets].

Temperature, salt and pH
The 6th-century Qimin Yaoshu gives warmth only in words and salt only by volume, and no study we found has measured this recipe.
  1. [qmys-wikisource] Jia Sixie (賈思勰), Qimin Yaoshu (齊民要術), juan 8, chapter 72 作豉法, Chinese Wikisource textbook
  2. [guo2025] Guo Q., Zhao J., Peng J., Huang Y., Yang W. 2025, Unraveling the correlation between physicochemical properties, volatile flavor compounds, and microbial communities during the fermentation of Aspergillus-type douchi, Curr Res Food Sci 11:101192, doi:10.1016/j.crfs.2025.101192 (abstract)paper
  3. [sic-nuggets] Shurtleff W., Aoyagi A., History of Soy Nuggets (Shih or Chi, Douchi, Hamanatto), page 1, SoyInfo Center (a chapter of an unpublished manuscript; quotes C.P. Li 1948 and Sakaguchi 1979)other
  4. [frisvad2018] Frisvad J.C., Møller L.L.H., Larsen T.O., Kumar R., Arnau J. 2018, Safety of the fungal workhorses of industrial biotechnology, update on the mycotoxin and secondary metabolite potential of Aspergillus niger, Aspergillus oryzae, and Trichoderma reesei, Applied Microbiology and Biotechnology 102:9481–9515paper
  5. [wp-qmys] Wikipedia, Qimin Yaoshu (author and date only)wiki