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Fish and seafood from Northern China
A 6th-century Qimin Yaoshu recipe for zha, carp pieces fermented with cooked rice. Skin-on pieces are salted and pressed under a stone, then packed in a jar in layers with firm-cooked rice, zhuyu, orange peel and wine under eight layers of bamboo leaves. The zha is ripe when a red liquid has come out and been poured off and a sour white liquid follows.
| Fresh carp, cut into skin-on pieces 2 cun long, 1 cun wide and 5 fen thickas much as fills the jar | Fish over a chi and a half long, with skin and bone too hard for kuai (sliced raw fish), all suit zha[qmys-ws] |
| White saltto taste | Grill one piece after pressing; if bland add salt to the rice, if salty leave it out of the rice[qmys-ws] |
| Firm-cooked non-glutinous riceenough for a layer of rice between each layer of fish, and more on top | Soft rice makes the zha go mushy[qmys-ws] |
| Zhuyu (whole) and orange peel (finely cut)a little, for the scent only | Wild orange (草橘子) may stand in for orange peel[qmys-ws] |
| Good winehalf a sheng per dou of zha | Bad wine is not used; the text says wine wards off harm and makes the zha ripen sooner[qmys-ws] |
Total time across the recorded steps: 20 days – 30 days
What changes: Carp is cut into skin-on pieces and soaked to wash out the blood
Big pieces over-sour outside and stay raw near the bone; small pieces ripen evenly. Output: carp pieces, each with skin, soaked and washed clean of blood.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
A 6th-century Qimin Yaoshu recipe for zha, carp pieces fermented with cooked rice. Skin-on pieces are salted and pressed under a stone, then packed in a jar in layers with firm-cooked rice, zhuyu, orange peel and wine under eight layers of bamboo leaves. The zha is ripe when a red liquid has come out and been poured off and a sour white liquid follows. Made in 6 steps over 20 days – 30 days. The longest step, variant, dried-fish zha: seal in the sun and ripen, takes 20–30 days (Jia Sixie 2026). Pediococcus does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 20–30 daysReported[qmys-ws] | Variant, dried-fish zha: seal in the sun and ripen |
|---|
The fish is pressed dry before it meets the rice, and wine and spices go in with the rice. A red liquid is poured off before the zha is judged ripe by its sour white liquid.
The text's own warning: zha is made in spring and autumn. In cold it is hard to ripen; in heat it needs so much salt that it loses its taste and breeds maggots. This is a 6th-century recipe, not a tested method, and it gives no salt, pH or temperature figure for the main zha. Salted raw fish packed with cooked rice is close to izushi, which Japan's agriculture ministry says caused 14 of the 29 food botulism incidents reported there from 1984 to 2026. Read this page as history and do not follow it, including the variants sealed and set in the sun.
Hazards the sources name: Enterobacteriaceae and Staphylococcus aureus, counted in the same related Hunan zhayu (2.06 log CFU/g of Enterobacteriaceae remained after 10 days; neither was detected after 10 days when lactic acid bacteria were added).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Qimin Yaoshu (6th century), vol. 8, ch. 74 作魚鮓. Wikipedia says rice-fermented fish such as narezushi originated in Southeast Asia, possibly in the Mekong basin.
