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Cheese from Mexico, Chiapas
Raw cow milk is soured with acid whey from the previous day and set with a little calf rennet, and the curd rests for 24 hours. It drains for a day, is salted, kneaded, moulded and pressed for four hours, then wrapped in waxed paper. The sour, salty paste is eaten from a week old to more than three months.
| Raw cow milk | [rosado2013][ocampo2026] |
| Acid whey from the previous day's make | [rosado2013] |
| Calf rennet1 mL per 10 L of milk | [rosado2013] |
| Salt | [rosado2013] |
| Starter | acid whey from the previous day's make (backslopping) |
Total time across the recorded steps: 9.2 days
What changes: Sour whey from yesterday is stirred into the raw milk
The raw milk is acidified with acid whey kept from the day before; the milk also rests before setting.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Raw cow milk is soured with acid whey from the previous day and set with a little calf rennet, and the curd rests for 24 hours. It drains for a day, is salted, kneaded, moulded and pressed for four hours, then wrapped in waxed paper. The sour, salty paste is eaten from a week old to more than three months. Made in 7 steps over 9.2 days. The longest step, ripen, takes at least 7 days (Ocampo Morales B.N. et al. 2026). Streptococcus, Lactobacillus and Lactococcus, the most abundant bacterial genera through 58 days of ripening, in that order of abundance does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | at least 7 daysReported[ocampo2026] | Ripen |
|---|---|---|
| Acidity | pH 4Measured[rosado2013] | Ripen |
A mixed acid-rennet curd, soured with the previous day's whey and rested for a day before draining, then salted, kneaded and pressed for four hours.
The milk is raw. Mexican standard NOM-243-SSA1-2010 defines cheese as made from pasteurised milk. In the Ocampo Morales study the cheese had a water activity of 0.93 at 2, 29 and 58 days and no coliform growth at any stage; the authors credit organic acids, ethanol, lower pH and lower water activity, and advise against long storage.
Hazards the sources name: Aeromonas (sequencing at all three stages) and Enterobacter (sequencing at 2 days only) DNA, neither found by qPCR at any stage; Chryseobacterium found by qPCR at 29 days; no coliforms grew at any stage in that study.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Chiapas makes about a million litres of milk a day, and around 70% goes into artisanal cheese. About 200 dairies, most of them small, make queso crema on the Costa alone. Lozano Moreno and Villegas de Gante say the tradition of making and eating the cheese goes back more than a century, that most of the state's small dairies make it, and that the certificate of its collective mark was granted in February 2013.
