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Cheese from Spain, Cantabria
Small cheeses made from a blend of two or three milks - cow, sheep and goat - from the mountain herds of Liébana. The milk is set with animal rennet at 28–32 °C, cut to pea-sized grains, moulded and dry-salted, then ripened in cool, damp rooms. Some are smoked over juniper wood for a day or a day and a half before sale. Made in 8 steps over 2 months – 2.1 months. The longest step, ripen, takes 2 months (MAPA (I.N.D.O.) 2081) and runs at up to 15 °C (MAPA (I.N.D.O.) 2081). Salt is 2–3 % (MAPA (I.N.D.O.) 2081).
| Main step | 2 monthsSet[pliego1996] | Ripen |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | up to 15 °CSet[pliego1996] | Ripen |
| Salt | 2–3 %Set[pliego1996] | Dry-salt |
| Whole milk from cows, sheep and goats · Two or three kinds blended; the share follows the season[pliego1996][eu1996] | |
| Animal rennet[pliego1996][eu1996] | |
| 2–3 % of the cheese weight | Dry salt[pliego1996] |
| Juniper wood (smoked type only)[pliego1996] | |
| Starter | animal rennet; the PDO file names no culture |
Total time across the recorded steps: 2 months – 2.1 months
What changes: Starting material: cow, sheep and goat milk blended together
Milk of two or three species from registered farms in Liébana, whole and with balanced fat and protein. The blend changes through the year with the herds' milking seasons.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Quesucos de Liébana is one of the few PDO cheeses that must blend the milk of two or three species. The juniper-smoked type keeps a herders' practice from the high pastures of Áliva.
Quesucos ripened less than 60 days must be made from pasteurised milk. For raw-milk cheese, ANSES advises pregnant women, young children, people over 65 and people with weak immunity to avoid it unless it is a pressed cooked cheese, because of Listeria, Salmonella and Shiga-toxin E. coli.
Hazards the sources name: Listeria monocytogenes, Salmonella, Shiga-toxin-producing E. coli and Staphylococcus aureus (risks named for raw-milk cheeses; raw milk is allowed when the cheese ripens 60 days or more).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The PDO file says the quesuco is the most typical cheese of Liébana, made to keep the milk of mixed herds in a valley far from collection routes. Smoking began in the summer pastures of Áliva, where herders lit fires at the mouths of their ripening caves to keep flies out and found the cheeses kept longer; it has since moved down to the Camaleño valley. The file also cites Columella on smoked cheeses and a 1442 price list for Santander. Cantabria recognised "Quesos de Liébana" in 1986 and a separate quesucos designation in 1993; the EU registered it in 1996.
