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Alcoholic drinks from Japan
Yamahai sake is brewed from a yeast starter that wild lactic bacteria sour on their own, as in kimoto, but without the pole-ramming of the rice. The starter is mixed cold, near 8 °C, warmed a little each day and takes three to four weeks before it goes into an ordinary three-step sake mash. Made in 7 steps over 2.3 months – 2.7 months. The longest step, ferment the main mash, takes 25–34 days (Tatsukami Y. et al. 2018) and runs at 5.8–10.4 °C (Tatsukami Y. et al. 2018). Latilactobacillus sakei, dominant in the middle stage of the starter and Lactobacillus acidipiscis, dominant early in one year's starter do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 25–34 daysMeasured[tatsukami2018][fujiwara2023] | Ferment the main mash |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 5.8–10.4 °CMeasured[tatsukami2018] | Ferment the main mash |
| 23 mL | Yamahai starter (shubo) · First addition (soe) of a lab-scale mash[fujiwara2023] |
| 9.6 g, 12.0 g and 14.4 g | Koji rice · For the first, middle and last additions (soe, naka, tome)[fujiwara2023] |
| 26.6 g, 54.6 g and 99.4 g | Steamed rice · For the soe, naka and tome additions[fujiwara2023] |
| 33 mL, 64 mL and 112 mL | Water · For the soe, naka and tome additions[fujiwara2023] |
| Starter | spontaneous (natural lactic bacteria in the starter), with sake yeast added |
Total time across the recorded steps: 2.3 months – 2.7 months
What changes: Koji mould spreads over the steamed rice and fills it with enzymes
Output: koji rice.
Microbes at work in this step
Aspergillus oryzae grows through the rice and makes the enzymes
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Kimoto rams the rice, koji and water into a paste with poles. Yamahai skips that work and lets time and the koji enzymes dissolve the rice instead. Unlike sokujo sake, no lactic acid is added, so the starter takes three to four weeks instead of about two.
The natural lactic souring is what keeps spoilage microbes out of the starter; it carries more risk of off-flavours than adding lactic acid. Pasteurising at 60–65 °C stops enzymes and kills microbes before storage.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The national brewing institute (now NRIB) invented yamahai-moto in 1909, the same year as sokujo-moto. Some accounts name Kagi Kinzaburo as its inventor, but the institute guide does not.
