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Firm ume are cracked with a mallet, the stones are removed, and the flesh is salted at 10–15 % of its weight. Red shiso, salted and squeezed, is added later and colours the flesh red-purple; the relish is ready once the salt has mellowed after the summer heat. It is a salt cure.
Fully documentedFruit4 days – 5 days
Recipe
Amounts from a sourceMAFF's regional-cuisine recipe for 10 servings, from the Nakagawa Gakuen cookery school.
Total time across the recorded steps: 4 days – 5 days
Start
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What changes:Firm ume are cracked open with a mallet and the stones are removed
Step 1 of 5
Crack the plums and remove the stones
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Wash and dry each plum, put them in a thick plastic bag and crack them with a pestle on a hard surface. Soft ripe fruit can be split by hand.
Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Method
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
At a glance
Firm ume are cracked with a mallet, the stones are removed, and the flesh is salted at 10–15 % of its weight. Red shiso, salted and squeezed, is added later and colours the flesh red-purple; the relish is ready once the salt has mellowed after the summer heat. It is a salt cure. Made in 5 steps over 4 days – 5 days. The longest step, shake the jar until the salt spreads, takes 4–5 days (MAFF うちの郷土料理 (Our Regional Cuisines)). Salt is 10–15 % (MAFF うちの郷土料理 (Our Regional Cuisines)).
Shikinbai uses blemished or misshapen ume, cracked and stoned, so it is a relish of flesh rather than whole plums. It uses less salt than umeboshi and is not sun-dried.
At 10 % salt the jar must be refrigerated; at 15 % keep it in a cool dark place [maff-shikinbai]. JAS 1752 sets pH 3.0 or lower for plain umezuke and umeboshi (3.5 for small plums), but the standard does not name shikinbai, so that figure is not a limit for this relish [jas1752].
Tokugawa Nariaki, ninth lord of the Mito domain, planted the ume of Kairakuen garden and is said to have devised shikinbai to use fruit too damaged for umeboshi or ume liqueur [maff-shikinbai]. MAFF's traditional-foods illustrated guide gives the same account, dates the Kairakuen garden to 1842, and says home cooks and pickle shops in Mito still make it, and that it is still made with Kairakuen ume [maff-dento].
Starter
The sources we found do not say how its fermentation begins.