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Soy and legumes from Japan — Kagoshima
Sotetsu miso is the cycad-seed miso of the Amami islands. The toxic cycad kernels ('nari') are split, dried and leached, ground, steamed with brown rice and grown into koji, then pounded with boiled soybeans, sweet potato and salt and packed into jars. In the one safety study we found, drying, the seed's own enzyme and the koji broke down the toxin cycasin, and the miso is ready in about a month. This page is not a recipe to make at home.
| Cycad seed kernels (nari)60 kg | Split, dried, leached, dried again and ground before steaming with the rice[Matsushita1982][MAFF-TF-narimiso] |
| Brown rice30 kg | Soaked, mixed with the cycad meal, steamed and made into koji[Matsushita1982][MAFF-TF-narimiso] |
| Soybeans20 kg | Boiled soft[Matsushita1982] |
| Sweet potato50 kg | Peeled and steamed[Matsushita1982] |
| Salt13 kg | [Matsushita1982] |
| Starter | koji grown on the cycad meal and rice; home makers relied on natural moulds, and a 1974 study advised using seed koji instead |
Total time across the recorded steps: 41 days – 2.1 months
What changes: Cycad seeds are split and the starchy kernels taken out
Seeds are best gathered in November. Output: cycad kernels.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Sotetsu miso is the cycad-seed miso of the Amami islands. The toxic cycad kernels ('nari') are split, dried and leached, ground, steamed with brown rice and grown into koji, then pounded with boiled soybeans, sweet potato and salt and packed into jars. In the one safety study we found, drying, the seed's own enzyme and the koji broke down the toxin cycasin, and the miso is ready in about a month. This page is not a recipe to make at home. Made in 7 steps over 41 days – 2.1 months. The longest step, pack into jars and ripen, takes 30–50 days (Matsushita Z. 1982). Salt is 10 % (Matsushita Z. 1982). Aspergillus oryzae does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 30–50 daysReported[Matsushita1982][Kobayashi1974] | Pack into jars and ripen |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 30 °CReported[Kobayashi1974] | Grow nari koji |
| Salt | 10 %Reported[Matsushita1982] | Pound with soybeans, sweet potato and salt |
Sotetsu miso replaces much of the grain with dried and leached cycad kernels, which are also grown into the koji, and it adds steamed sweet potato. Most Japanese misos use only rice, barley or soybean koji.
Raw cycad kernels contain cycasin, a glycoside of methylazoxymethanol that releases formaldehyde, causes severe headache and vomiting, and can kill [Yoshida2000]. Cycasin is also a potent carcinogen [Kobayashi1974]. Air-drying and koji making break it down and leaching washes it out; no cycasin was found in home-made or trial sotetsu miso, but flour from seeds heated first still held it. Rats fed 10–50 % sotetsu miso for 62 days, or 10 % for 190 days, showed no tumours. This is one study from 1974, not proof that the miso is safe. The same study found no aflatoxin but advised using seed koji rather than natural moulds [Kobayashi1974]. Flour of a related Guam cycad held bound BMAA, a nerve toxin proposed as a cause of a devastating neurological disease on Guam, though other researchers disputed that a slow toxin could cause it [Murch2004]; we found no test of it in this miso. The sources we could read give no leaching time, and a home kitchen cannot test for cycasin. Do not make this miso or its soy sauce from cycad seed at home. Where it is still made, do not shorten the drying, leaching or koji stages.
Hazards the sources name: Cycasin, the toxin of raw cycad seed and a potent carcinogen; not detected in seed air-dried the usual way, but still present in flour from seeds heated first; BMAA, a nerve toxin found bound in flour of the related Guam cycad (Cycas micronesica); we found no test of it in sotetsu miso; Aflatoxin-producing moulds (reported in Amami samples by other workers; no aflatoxin was found in three home-made sotetsu misos or in the trial brews).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
After Satsuma's 1747 order that Amami pay its taxes in sugar, the islands turned from rice to sugarcane and ate cycad in place of rice. Making miso was an important task for Amami women, and sotetsu miso is a Bunkachō '100-year food' [MAFF-TF-narimiso]. It was home-brewed on many farms until the Shōwa 30s (1955–1964) [Yoshida2000]. Nishida Kōtarō of Kagoshima University isolated cycasin in 1955 [Kobayashi1974].
