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Cheese from Spain, Extremadura, La Serena district
Raw whole milk from Merino and Lacaune ewes is set with dried cardoon thistle flowers (Cynara cardunculus) at 25–32 °C over 50–75 minutes. The curd is cut to 10–20 mm grains, moulded in esparto bands or moulds and salted dry or in brine of at most 20 % for up to 24 hours. It ripens at least 20 days; about 20 days after moulding the paste turns runny, the 'atortado' that gives the torta.
| Raw whole milk of Merino and Lacaune ewes and their crosses from the area | Lacaune added in 2026; at least 4.8 % protein and 11 % cheese extract[serena-eu2026] |
| Natural vegetable coagulant from dried Cynara cardunculus flowers (yerbacuajo) | [serena-eu2026][serena-pliego2017] |
| Salt (sodium chloride), dry or as brine of at most 20 % | [serena-pliego2017] |
| Starter | none added; the thesis says the cheese is made without a starter culture, with raw ewe milk, vegetable coagulant and salt |
Total time across the recorded steps: 21 days
What changes: Dried thistle flowers set the raw ewe milk slowly at 25–32 °C
The moderate temperature and the weak thistle coagulant give long setting times.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Raw whole milk from Merino and Lacaune ewes is set with dried cardoon thistle flowers (Cynara cardunculus) at 25–32 °C over 50–75 minutes. The curd is cut to 10–20 mm grains, moulded in esparto bands or moulds and salted dry or in brine of at most 20 % for up to 24 hours. It ripens at least 20 days; about 20 days after moulding the paste turns runny, the 'atortado' that gives the torta. Made in 5 steps over 21 days. The longest step, ripen until it turns runny, takes at least 20 days (Pliego de condiciones 2017). Salt is up to 20 % (Pliego de condiciones 2017). Lactic acid bacteria, up to 90 % of sequencing reads through ripening; mainly Leuconostoc mesenteroides, Lactococcus lactis and Lactococcus raffinolactis does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | at least 20 daysSet[serena-pliego2017] | Ripen until it turns runny |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 25–32 °CSet[serena-eu2026][serena-pliego2017] | Set with thistle coagulant |
| Salt | up to 20 %Set[serena-pliego2017] | Salt |
| Acidity | pH 4.9–5.9Set[serena-eu2026] | Ripen until it turns runny |
Set only with dried thistle flowers at a moderate temperature, so the curd sets slowly and the paste breaks down into a spoonable torta about twenty days after moulding.
Made from raw ewe milk. In the 2021 thesis, sequencing of cheeses from three Queso de La Serena and three Torta del Casar dairies found no sequences of enterohemorrhagic E. coli, Listeria monocytogenes or Salmonella. The thesis notes that other studies have reported E. coli O157:H7 and L. monocytogenes in raw-milk torta-type and Portuguese ewe cheeses, and the 2026 single document sets the pH of the finished cheese at 4.9–5.9. A clean result from six dairies does not rule these bacteria out, and the 2017 specification gives a minimum ripening of only 20 days for this soft cheese (the thesis says 60; see the ripening step). ANSES advises pregnant women, young children, people over 65 and people with weak immunity to avoid raw-milk cheeses other than cooked pressed ones such as Gruyère or Comté.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Vázquez Merchán (2021) cites a 1791 account, Viaje a La Serena by Antonio Agúndez Fernández, that praises the cheese made from the district's ewe milk, and 16th–17th century ordinances of Cabeza del Buey that mention a tithe of cheese. The name was registered as a PDO on 21 June 1996; the 2026 amendment (PDO-ES-0086-AM02) added Lacaune ewes to the permitted milk.
