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Fat herring are gibbed, which takes out the gills and part of the gut but leaves the pyloric caeca inside, then mixed with dry salt in watertight barrels. The salt pulls out a brine that covers the fish, and proteolytic enzymes from the caeca give the flesh its taste and soft texture in the cold brine.
Fully documentedFish and seafood7 days – 31 days
Recipe
Amounts from a sourceThe trial batches of Ritskes (1971) at the Institute for Fishery Products TNO, which salted the herring "in the usual way" with dry salt. The Norwegian Directorate of Fisheries (1974) sizes a matjes barrel at about 85 kg of packed salted fish.
Atlantic herring, fresh, gibbed
The pyloric caeca stay in the fish; in Ritskes' trial gutted herring had a non-typical flavour and a moderately firm texture[ritskes1971]
Dry salt1 part salt to 7, 10 or 20 parts herring (w/w) in the trials
1:20 was the light salting at 3 °C for 1 week, 1:7 the trial at 15 °C, and 1:10 the trials at 3 °C. The Norwegian matjes cure used 15–16 kg salt per 100 kg fresh herring[ritskes1971][norway1974]
the herring's own pyloric caeca enzymes, which act once the fish is salted (natural ripening, no enzyme preparation added)
Total time across the recorded steps: 7 days – 31 days
Start
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What changes:A cut below the gill takes out part of the gut and leaves the enzyme-rich caeca inside
Step 1 of 5
Gib the fresh herring
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Gibbing removes the gills and part of the gut through an incision below the left gill. The pyloric caeca must stay in the fish, because their proteolytic enzymes make the flavour and soft texture. The Norwegian Directorate of Fisheries (1974) likewise leaves the gonads and a small part of the caeca in gibbed or nobbed herring. Output: gibbed herring with the pyloric caeca left in.
Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Method
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
At a glance
Fat herring are gibbed, which takes out the gills and part of the gut but leaves the pyloric caeca inside, then mixed with dry salt in watertight barrels. The salt pulls out a brine that covers the fish, and proteolytic enzymes from the caeca give the flesh its taste and soft texture in the cold brine. Made in 5 steps over 7 days – 31 days. The longest step, ripen cold in the brine, takes 7–31 days (Ritskes T.M. 1971) and runs at 2–4 °C (Ritskes T.M. 1971). Salt is 10–22 % (Ritskes T.M. 1971).
Ritskes attributes the taste and soft texture of barrel-salted maatjes herring to proteolytic enzymes from the pyloric caeca. That is why gibbing leaves the caeca in, and why only herring caught in the right season ripen well without added enzymes.
Matjes (maatjes)The Dutch maatjes cure, made from North Sea herring caught when the caeca enzymes are strong (May to July in the North Sea).
Enzyme-ripened maatjesHerring caught in other seasons are ripened by adding protease preparations with the salt (Ritskes 1971); the Codex draft does not cover products made with added enzyme preparations.
Sugar-salted and spiced herring (Norway)Sugar-salted herring uses about 14–16 kg fine salt and 7 kg sugar per 100 kg fresh herring; spiced cure uses about 14 kg salt, 7 kg sugar and 1–1.2 kg spices (Norwegian Directorate of Fisheries 1974).
Safety
The Codex draft standard asks that salting time and temperature be controlled to prevent Clostridium botulinum, or that the fish be eviscerated before brining. The US FDA treats salt-cured fish over about five inches that have not been eviscerated as a potentially life-threatening hazard, whether chilled or frozen. Salt is hard to get into every part, and toxin can form with no sign of spoilage. Gibbed herring keep part of the gut, and these steps record commercial trials, not a safe home method. Very lightly salted herring must be kept frozen, and the others frozen or refrigerated. The flesh must contain no living nematode larvae; freezing to −20 °C for at least 24 h in all parts kills them. Histamine must not exceed 10 mg/100 g on average or 20 mg/100 g in any sample unit (Codex draft).
Hazards the sources name: Clostridium botulinum (the reason the Codex standard asks for controlled salting time and temperature, or evisceration); Living nematode larvae in the herring flesh.
Ritskes (1971) says maatjes-type herring has been made for centuries aboard Dutch fishing vessels. In the years before 1974 Norwegian processors began matjes curing of fat herring to match the foreign matjes herring, while Dutch salt herring had taken a considerable share of the Norwegian home market (Norwegian Directorate of Fisheries 1974).