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Tea leaf from Asahi

Batabata-chaバタバタ茶

Mature summer tea leaves are cut, steamed and heaped in a straw-lined box called a muro, where the heat of fermentation takes the pile to nearly 70 °C. The pile is moved and cooled every two or three days, 10 to 15 times, for up to about a month or a little more, then dried. It is one of Japan's four post-fermented teas, and it is whisked to a froth before drinking.

Fully documentedTea leaf33 days – 44 days

Recipe

No fixed amounts recordedThe sources used here give no batch size.
Mature tea leavesSpring buds are not used; grown leaves are cut from late July to early August (Driveplaza); GJTea says some farms cut in September[driveplaza2023][gjtea2021]
Softer twigs cut with the leavesThe harder twigs and thick branches are removed before the leaves are processed[gjtea2021]

Total time across the recorded steps: 33 days – 44 days

Start
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What changes: Mature leaves and soft twigs are cut, and the hard twigs and thick branches are taken out

Step 1 of 4
Cut the mature leaves and sort out the hard twigs
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Moulds

Normally both the leaves and the twigs are cut and collected; the harder twigs and thick branches are removed before the leaves are processed. Output: cut leaves with soft twigs.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Mature summer tea leaves are cut, steamed and heaped in a straw-lined box called a muro, where the heat of fermentation takes the pile to nearly 70 °C. The pile is moved and cooled every two or three days, 10 to 15 times, for up to about a month or a little more, then dried. It is one of Japan's four post-fermented teas, and it is whisked to a froth before drinking. Made in 4 steps over 33 days – 44 days. The longest step, heap in the muro and turn it again and again (kirikaeshi), takes 30–40 days (Global Japanese Tea Association (S. Cherchi)…) and runs at 70 °C (Horie M 2019). Aspergillus fumigatus and Thermomyces lanuginosus and Bacillus coagulans do most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main step30–40 daysReported[gjtea2021][driveplaza2023]Heap in the muro and turn it again and again (kirikaeshi)
Temperature70 °CReported[horie2019a]Heap in the muro and turn it again and again (kirikaeshi)

What makes this one different

Batabata-cha is fermented in air in a hot heap, and the Global Japanese Tea Association calls it the Japanese post-fermented tea closest to Chinese pu-erh. Horie and colleagues (2023) say it was made without lactic fermentation and found no D-amino acids in it (data not shown), unlike lactic-fermented Ishizuchi-kurocha. Awa-bancha is fermented with lactic acid bacteria, and Goishi-cha and Ishizuchi-kurocha are two-stage teas (Nishioka 2021).

Related ferments

Variants

  • Itoigawa batabata-chaMade and drunk across the border in Itoigawa, Niigata.

Safety

The heap gets close to 70 °C, and the authors suggest that proper temperature control is important for stable production.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

The Global Japanese Tea Association says batabata-cha was originally introduced from China and was also made in Fukui Prefecture until 1976. Toyama's climate does not suit tea, so the making was once commissioned to Mihama in Fukui; when Fukui stopped, a tea farmer in western Toyama took it over. In about 2000 the Asahi town chamber of commerce took over making the tea from that farmer, who was giving up, and learned his method over three years (Driveplaza 2023).

Starter
The sources we found do not say how its fermentation begins.
  1. [horie2019a] Horie M., Nishioka H., Tada A., Sugino S. et al. 2019, バタバタ茶の発酵に関与する微生物 (Microorganisms involved in fermentation of Batabata-cha), Journal of the Japanese Society of Taste Technology 18(2):62–70 (abstract via J-STAGE)paper
  2. [horie2023] Horie M., Ohmiya Y., Ohmori T. 2023, Analysis of D-amino acid in Japanese post-fermented tea, Ishizuchi-kurocha, Bioscience of Microbiota, Food and Health (Batabata-cha had none)paper
  3. [gjtea2021] Global Japanese Tea Association (S. Cherchi) 2021, Batabatachaweb
  4. [nishioka2021] Nishioka H., Ohno T., Iwahashi H., Horie M. 2021, Diversity of Lactic Acid Bacteria Involved in the Fermentation of Awa-bancha, Microbes and Environments 36(4):ME21029 (introduction lists the four Japanese post-fermented teas)paper
  5. [driveplaza2023] Driveplaza (NEXCO East Japan) 2023, 黒茶を嗜む富山の茶会, 未知の細道 No.238, part 6web