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Cheese from Sardinia, Italy

Casu marzucasu marzu

A Sardinian pecorino, mostly from sheep milk, is left open to the cheese fly Piophila casei in the warm months. The fly lays eggs in cracks in the rind, and the larvae feed on the paste, breaking down protein and fat until it turns soft and pungent; the cheese is ready after 60–90 days. It is listed as a Sardinian traditional product, but a 2020 review calls it one of the most disputable cheeses in Europe for safety, and its production has stayed informal.

Fully documentedCheese2 months – 3 monthsTraditional food product (PAT, Regione Sardegna, D.M. 18 July 2000 and later lists)

Recipe

Casu marzu, a photo from Wikimedia Commons
Photo: Shardan, CC BY-SA 2.5, via Wikimedia Commons
No fixed amounts recordedNo fixed recipe. The controlled-production study made about 250 L of whole sheep milk into each batch of cheese, salted in 20 °Bé brine for 12 or 24 hours.
A young pecorino, made from raw or (in the study) pasteurised whole sheep milk[mazzette2010][manca2015]
Piophila casei eggs and larvae, from flies in the dairy[mazzette2010][manca2015]
Oil on the rind (optional; the study says it softens the rind and attracts the fly)[mazzette2010]
Starterin the controlled study, a freeze-dried lactic culture and calf rennet in the base cheese (plus a Saccharomyces cerevisiae yeast culture in the holed-paste cheese); Piophila casei larvae then colonise it

Total time across the recorded steps: 2 months – 3 months

Start
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Close-up: salt moving into a cheese

What changes: A young pecorino is made, lightly salted so the fly can reach it

Step 1 of 4
Make a young pecorino
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented

Producers make colonisation easier by brining less, pressing less, piercing the rind and using oil on it.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

A Sardinian pecorino, mostly from sheep milk, is left open to the cheese fly Piophila casei in the warm months. The fly lays eggs in cracks in the rind, and the larvae feed on the paste, breaking down protein and fat until it turns soft and pungent; the cheese is ready after 60–90 days. It is listed as a Sardinian traditional product, but a 2020 review calls it one of the most disputable cheeses in Europe for safety, and its production has stayed informal. Made in 4 steps over 2 months – 3 months. The longest step, larvae digest the paste, takes 2–3 months (Manca G 2015). Piophila casei larvae does most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main step2–3 monthsReported[manca2015]Larvae digest the paste
Temperature20 °CReported[mazzette2010]Warm the cheese so it swells
AciditypH 5.3 → 5.91Measured[mazzette2010]Larvae digest the paste

What makes this one different

Fly larvae change the paste, partly by chewing and partly by enzymes; similar cheeses are named from Abruzzo, Friuli and Emilia-Romagna. Producers invite the fly on purpose by shortening the brining, pressing less, piercing or oiling the rind and keeping the cheese in the warmest rooms.

Legal status
On the Sardinian list of traditional products since the D.M. of 18 July 2000; EU law bars placing unsafe food on the market (Reg. (EC) No 178/2002, art. 14), and the study notes production is informal (Toti 2020 review; Mazzette 2010)
GABA
Farmhouse casu marzu held 34.4–1001.3 mg GABA per 100 g

Related ferments

Variants

  • Cacio marcetto (Abruzzo)Named in the controlled-production study as a similar larva-ripened cheese from Abruzzo
  • Salterello (Friuli) and furmai nis (Emilia-Romagna)Similar larva-ripened cheeses named in the controlled-production study

Safety

In the controlled study, pH above 5.6 and water activity above 0.920 from 30 days on did not stop spoilage bacteria, and Bacillus cereus group and Clostridium perfringens turned up in a few samples. The authors advise it only for healthy adults. The larvae have been linked to intestinal myiasis, and strong proteolysis gives high biogenic amines. It is eaten with live larvae, so this page records a tradition, not a method to copy at home.

Hazards the sources name: Bacillus cereus group strains (sporadic, mostly early in the process) and Clostridium perfringens on the rind of two 60-day cheeses, one exposed to the fly and one protected control, in the controlled-production study; Live Piophila casei larvae, linked to gastrointestinal myiasis in people; High biogenic amines from strong proteolysis.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Mazzette and colleagues (2010) say producers and industrial dairies promoted a valorisation project, funded by Regione Sardegna, to win recognition for casu marzu. It first characterised farm-made cheeses, then tried colonisation under controlled conditions with flies reared in the laboratory.

  1. [mazzette2010] Mazzette R, Colleo MM, Riu G, Piras G, Piras F, Addis M, Pes M, Pirisi A, Meloni D, Mureddu A, Spada S, Fiori M, Coinu M, Lentini A (2010). Production under controlled conditions of "casu marzu" cheese - effect of the Piophila casei colonization on microbial and chemical composition of the cheeses. Italian Journal of Food Safety 1(7):45-54paper
  2. [manca2015] Manca G, Porcu A, Ru A, Salaris M, Franco MA, De Santis EP (2015). Comparison of γ-aminobutyric acid and biogenic amine content of different types of ewe's milk cheese produced in Sardinia, Italy. Italian Journal of Food Safety 4(2):4700paper
  3. [review-entomophagy2020] Toti E, Massaro L, Kais A, Aiello P, Palmery M, Peluso I (2020). Entomophagy - a narrative review on nutritional value, safety, cultural acceptance and a focus on the role of food neophobia in Italy. European Journal of Investigation in Health, Psychology and Education 10(2):628-643paper