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Soy and legumes from Heian Japan
Misho was the court's miso-like paste, in which the soybean grains still showed. The Engishiki, completed in 927, lists its ingredients for one batch, soybeans for hishio, rice for koji, wheat, sake and salt, and says they make 1 koku of paste, but it does not describe the method. This is a text-only reconstruction from the recipe as two modern sources quote it.
| Soybeans for hishio (醤大豆)1 koku | [tsuchiyama2016][ndl-kaleido] |
| Rice5 shō 4 gō | Marked in the text with a small note, 蘗料. Sasaki and colleagues (2023) read the same note on the court's hishio in this passage as rice for koji[tsuchiyama2016][ndl-kaleido][sasaki2023] |
| Wheat5 shō 4 gō | [tsuchiyama2016][ndl-kaleido] |
| Sake8 shō | [tsuchiyama2016][ndl-kaleido] |
| Salt4 to | [tsuchiyama2016][ndl-kaleido] |
| Starter | koji on rice (the text marks the rice 蘗料; Sasaki and colleagues 2023 read the same note on the court's hishio as rice for koji) |
What changes: Koji mould grows on the rice that will start the paste
The Engishiki marks the rice as being for koji but does not say how the koji was made. Output: rice koji.
Microbes at work in this step
koji mould grows on the rice and makes the enzymes for the paste
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Misho was the court's miso-like paste, in which the soybean grains still showed. The Engishiki, completed in 927, lists its ingredients for one batch, soybeans for hishio, rice for koji, wheat, sake and salt, and says they make 1 koku of paste, but it does not describe the method. This is a text-only reconstruction from the recipe as two modern sources quote it.
Misho is the court paste closest to miso, with the bean grains left in (NDL). The court's hishio for the emperor used 3 koku of soybeans with rice, glutinous rice, wheat, sake and salt; misho uses 1 koku of hishio beans with rice, wheat, sake and salt.
The Engishiki says nothing about safety. As a general hazard for mould-ripened pastes, Ito and Matsuyama (2021) note that wild Aspergillus flavus and A. parasiticus make aflatoxin, while the koji moulds A. oryzae and A. sojae, bred for soy sauce and miso, do not. Nothing says which mould this koji used, so a koji that grows from wild mould cannot be assumed free of aflatoxin.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The Engishiki was ordered in 905 and its main text was completed and presented to the throne in 927 (Wikipedia). Its text writes 未醤, which Tsuchiyama and co-authors say is correctly 末醤. The Taihō Code of 701 already had a court office for hishio, and the court's hishio store recorded hishio and kuki (the forerunner of salted nattō) (NDL).
