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Cheese from France
Lactic goat cheeses are set mostly by acid, with only a trace of rennet, over a day or two at cool room temperature. The soft curd is ladled into moulds, drains by itself, is salted (often with ash) on the surface and ripens in a humid room, where yeasts and moulds grow a rind from the outside in.
| Whole goat milk | Raw in the French PDO cheeses cited[smt-cdc-2021] |
| Rennet (520 mg chymosin per litre)At most 5 ml per 100 litres | Sainte-Maure limit; a mere trace, since the curd is mainly lactic[smt-cdc-2021] |
| Surface salt, often mixed with vegetable charcoal ash | Salting in the mass before moulding is forbidden for Selles-sur-Cher[selles-cdc-2014] |
| Natural milk flora, whey from the last batch, or bought mesophilic bacteria, moulds and yeasts | [smt-cdc-2021] |
| Starter | natural milk flora, whey from the previous batch, or commercial mesophilic bacteria, yeasts and moulds |
Total time across the recorded steps: 13 days – 15 days
What changes: Lactic bacteria and a trace of rennet slowly set the milk
Output: lactic curd.
Microbes at work in this step
mesophilic lactic bacteria acidify slowly
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Lactic goat cheeses are set mostly by acid, with only a trace of rennet, over a day or two at cool room temperature. The soft curd is ladled into moulds, drains by itself, is salted (often with ash) on the surface and ripens in a humid room, where yeasts and moulds grow a rind from the outside in. Made in 5 steps over 13 days – 15 days. The longest step, ripen until the rind forms, takes at least 10 days (Ministère de l'agriculture 2021) and runs at 6–16 °C (Ministère de l'agriculture 2021). Lactococcus lactis, the main acidifying bacterium in Pélardon, a goat cheese of this type and Leuconostoc mesenteroides do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | at least 10 daysSet[smt-cdc-2021][selles-cdc-2014] | Ripen until the rind forms |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 6–16 °CSet[smt-cdc-2021] | Ripen until the rind forms |
| Acidity | pH 4–4.5Set[picodon-cdc-2017] | Ladle into moulds and let it drain |
Set mainly by lactic acid with only a trace of rennet, drained slowly with no pressing, and ripened by a surface rind instead of being cooked or pressed.
Made the same way, each with what its own sources record.
Cheese from France, southern Burgundy, the Mâconnais and Haut-Beaujolais
Bouton de culotte is a tiny form of the Mâconnais goat cheese tradition, small enough to drain without turning. Aged for about two months, it develops a peppery taste.
Sources: France Hotel Guide; Publication of an application for the PDO «Mâconnais» with its single document
Cheese from France, Tarn
A lactic goat cheese shaped in linen cloth instead of a mould, which gives it fold marks and a long shape.
Sources: culture: the word on cheese; US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
Cheese from France, Corsica
A herb-flavoured Corsican cheese with a mouldy rind; unpressed and uncooked, moulded by hand and salted once dry.
Sources: French Moments; culture magazine; US Food and Drug Administration 2016
Cheese from United States, California, Arcata
A Californian goat cheese in the French ash-coated style, with a Morbier-like ash line through the middle as well as ash under the rind.
Cheese from England, Staffordshire
A British farmhouse lactic goat cheese, slow-set overnight with whey from the previous day and little rennet, made only from the farm's own raw milk.
Sources: Neal's Yard Dairy; US Food and Drug Administration; La Fromagerie
Cheese from France, Rhône, Ain, Drôme, Isère
Thicker, richer, creamier cousin of Saint-Marcellin; Lyon trade name from 1956. Not the Ardèche goat-milk « caillé doux de Saint-Félicien », a farm cheese renneted warm right after milking.
Sources: Wikipédia (fr); Assemblée nationale 2017–2018; US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention; US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
Cheese from Ireland, Co. Clare
An Irish farmhouse goat cheese made on one farm in Co. Clare since 1979, from its own herd. A special raw-milk version for Neal's Yard Dairy uses unchilled morning milk and curd salted by hand.
Sources: Neal's Yard Dairy; Sheridans Cheesemongers; St Tola; US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
These are raw-milk cheeses in the cited PDO rules. ANSES names soft bloomy-rind raw-milk cheeses such as camembert, brie and crottin among the main sources of hazards in French raw-milk cheese. It advises pregnant women, young children, people over 65 and people with weak immunity not to eat raw-milk cheeses other than cooked pressed ones. Picodon sets curd pH 4 to 4.5 at moulding. Sainte-Maure cheeses may leave the ripening room only after 10 days from renneting and with a well-developed rind.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The Picodon specification says Olivier de Serres described the goats of the Bas-Vivarais in 1600, and that the cheese reached the appellation (AOC) by decree of 25 July 1983. The Selles-sur-Cher specification says the cheese began as a domestic product made by women, who used ash and later charcoal powder mixed with salt, that egg-and-poultry collectors (coquetiers) began to gather and ripen the cheeses at the end of the 19th century, and that the chamber of agriculture of Loir-et-Cher asked the minister for an appellation on 13 December 1936.
