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Cheese from Italy, Lazio
Raw or pasteurised milk of local Bianca and Grigia Ciociara goats is set with kid rennet paste, in most villages at 30–38 °C, and cut to hazelnut or rice-grain curd. Some makers heat the curd and keep the forms warm for a few hours; the cheese is then dry-salted or brined, dried on cane racks and sold from 20 days to 6 months old. Each village has its own times and temperatures.
| Whole goat milk from local Bianca dei Monti Ausoni e Aurunci and Grigia Ciociara goats, raw or pasteurised | Small amounts of sheep or cow milk may be added in some seasons[lazio-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Kid rennet paste, or liquid rennet | [lazio-sheet][onaf] |
| Thermophilic starter (some makers only) | [lazio-sheet] |
| Salt | [lazio-sheet] |
| Chilli in the paste, or a rind sauce of oil, vinegar, oregano, chilli and rosemary (flavoured types) | [lazio-sheet][onaf-sheet] |
| Starter | none at Monte S. Biagio, Itri, Campodimele, Castel S. Pietro Romano and Picinisco; thermophilic cultures at Cassino, Carpineto Romano and Latina |
Total time across the recorded steps: 26 days – 6.8 months
What changes: Goat milk is filtered through cloth and, in some dairies, briefly pasteurised
Two to four milkings chilled to 4 °C, or milk worked at each milking; filtered through cloth or a sieve.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Raw or pasteurised milk of local Bianca and Grigia Ciociara goats is set with kid rennet paste, in most villages at 30–38 °C, and cut to hazelnut or rice-grain curd. Some makers heat the curd and keep the forms warm for a few hours; the cheese is then dry-salted or brined, dried on cane racks and sold from 20 days to 6 months old. Each village has its own times and temperatures. Made in 8 steps over 26 days – 6.8 months. The longest step, ripen, takes 20 days – 6 months (Regione Lazio) and runs at 8–12 °C (Regione Lazio).
| Main step | 20 days – 6 monthsReported[lazio-sheet][onaf-sheet] | Ripen |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 8–12 °CReported[lazio-sheet] | Ripen |
Less one recipe than a family of village methods for local goat milk, recorded side by side in the regional sheet. Times and temperatures change from village to village, and the cheese is made in the warmer months in the same area as Marzolina.
Milk is used raw in several villages and pasteurised at 68–72 °C for 15–30 seconds in others. Milkings kept for later work are chilled to 4 °C. For the raw-milk cheeses, ANSES advises pregnant women, young children, people over 65 and people with weak immunity not to eat raw-milk cheeses other than cooked pressed ones such as Gruyère or Comté, because of Listeria, Salmonella and enterohaemorrhagic E. coli.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The ONAF technical sheet calls it a very old type of cheese that goes back to the 3rd millennium BC, and rests this on local oral tradition, traces in municipal archives and its long presence in local restaurants and pork butchers' shops; it cites no document for the date. It names the traditions still kept, the local Bianca dei Monti Ausoni e Aurunci goat (protected by regional law 15/2000) and Grigia Ciociara goat, copper vats, wooden boards, cane drying racks and clay or glass jars. Mixed goat-sheep and goat-cow cheeses use the same method, adding other milk to make up the goat milk at the end of lactation.
