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Cheese from France, Lyonnais, Beaujolais, Dombes and Bugey
Fromage fort (Lyonnais, Beaujolais and Bugey)fromage fort
Fromage fort is a home ferment of leftover or failed cheeses rather than a cheese made from milk. Old cheese is grated or crushed into a stoneware pot with alcohol, often white wine, and in the Lyon area leek broth; added liquid restarts fermentation. Kept going, it turns pungent and pasty, and the pot is topped up with fresh cheese as it is eaten.
A short entry: the sources we found record only what is said here about Fromage fort itself.
Short entryCheese8 days – 10 days
Recipe
No fixed amounts recordedHome recipes with no fixed amounts; there is no single recipe.
Leftover cheeses
Goat, cow or sheep; in the Bugey, Bleu de Gex and grated cheeses[wp-fr]
Alcohol
White wine, cider, vinegar, or eau-de-vie (plum, grape, marc); the source says every recipe has alcohol[wp-fr]
In the Ain version of 1928, added after the first fermentation[doane1928]
Starter
some Lyon recipes add a levain of fromage fort; the added liquid also sets off a second fermentation
Total time across the recorded steps: 8 days – 10 days
Start
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What changes:Leftover cheeses are grated or crushed into a stoneware pot
Step 1 of 4
Grate or crush old cheese into a pot
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Method
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
At a glance
Fromage fort is a home ferment of leftover or failed cheeses rather than a cheese made from milk. Old cheese is grated or crushed into a stoneware pot with alcohol, often white wine, and in the Lyon area leek broth; added liquid restarts fermentation. Kept going, it turns pungent and pasty, and the pot is topped up with fresh cheese as it is eaten. Made in 4 steps over 8 days – 10 days. The longest step, ferment the grated cheese (Ain method), takes 8–10 days (Doane C.F 1928).
Fromage fort starts from finished cheese, not milk. Its alcohol and added liquid drive a second fermentation in a pot, and the pot can be kept going by adding more cheese. Cancoillotte, from Franche-Comté, is instead a melted spread made from metton curd.
Fromage fort de la Croix-Rousse (Lyon)Old goat and cow cheese with Gruyère, leek broth, white wine and butter
Tracle (Bugey)Bleu de Gex and grated cheeses with white wine and leek broth
Cachat and bosson macéré (Provence)Goat or sheep cheese steeped with eau-de-vie
Safety
It is made from leftover cheeses of any kind, and the pot is kept going for weeks or months with fresh cheese added. The CDC tells people at higher risk of listeriosis (pregnant women, newborns, people 65 or older, people with a weak immune system) to avoid any cheese made from raw milk unless it is heated until steaming hot. The leftover cheeses in the pot may include raw-milk ones.
In Lyon the Croix-Rousse version took its name from the bouchon restaurants and was above all the cheese of the silk weavers, as an 1841 account describes. A 1928 US bulletin describes the Ain method of fermenting grated, melted skim-milk curd before adding milk, butter and wine.