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Fish and seafood from Japan
Pufferfish ovaries, which are normally lethal because of tetrodotoxin, are packed in heavy salt for about half a year to a year and a half, then washed and pickled under a weight in rice bran with rice koji, chilli and the fish sauce ishiru. After about three years in all, batches that pass a toxin test may be sold. Some toxin remains in the finished food.
| Pufferfish ovaries | Separated from the flesh; the fish are processed in April–June and September[maff-fugunoko][itagaki2005][mhlw2019] |
| Salt | A large amount, said to be about 30 %, in a 1,000-litre tank; the finished product is very salty[maff-fugunoko][itagaki2005][mhlw2019] |
| Rice bran, rice koji and chilli | [maff-fugunoko][itagaki2005] |
| Ishiru (sardine fish sauce) | Poured in from the edge of the wooden lid from time to time[maff-fugunoko][itagaki2005] |
| Starter | rice koji is packed in with the bran |
Total time across the recorded steps: 12 months – 2.5 years
What changes: Starting material: pufferfish ovaries, separated from the flesh
Gomafugu caught off the Sea of Japan coast in May and June are cut up and the ovaries taken out; near Ishikawa the fugu are processed in April–June and September. Only holders of a fugu cook's licence may do this work.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Pufferfish ovaries, which are normally lethal because of tetrodotoxin, are packed in heavy salt for about half a year to a year and a half, then washed and pickled under a weight in rice bran with rice koji, chilli and the fish sauce ishiru. After about three years in all, batches that pass a toxin test may be sold. Some toxin remains in the finished food. Made in 5 steps over 12 months – 2.5 years. The longest step, salt the ovaries, takes 6–18 months (MAFF Japan). Salt is 30 % (Itagaki E. 2005). Tetragenococcus muriaticus, the main lactic acid bacterium in the bran-pickled ovaries does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 6–18 monthsReported[maff-fugunoko][itagaki2005] | Salt the ovaries |
|---|---|---|
| Salt | 30 %Reported[itagaki2005] | Salt the ovaries |
Fugu no ko nukazuke is made from an organ that is lethal raw. It is salted for far longer than heshiko or other bran-pickled fish, and every barrel is tested for tetrodotoxin before sale.
Never try this at home. Raw pufferfish ovaries hold 10² to 10³ MU/g of tetrodotoxin (Itagaki 2005), a deadly poison (MAFF). Japan's health ministry says rubbing with salt, soaking in water or heating does not remove it, and food law bans selling or serving puffer ovaries, apart from the salted products its notice allows. Only holders of a fugu cook's licence may make this food in Ishikawa, and each barrel is checked for toxin before sale (MAFF). A Japanese health ministry research report gives 10 MU/g as the regulation value for fugu ovary bran pickles and says its scientific basis is not well verified (Suzuki, FY2019). How the toxin falls is not settled. Lab work found no toxin breakdown by the bran microbes (Kobayashi et al. 2003), while later work detected falling tetrodotoxin and an analogue during the bran stage (Enomoto). Two reports from the same group disagree on how the finished products measure. In the FY2019 report, instrument analysis converted all six makers' products to 10 MU/g or less. In the FY2020 report, with a new sample clean-up method, five of the six converted above 10 MU/g, although mouse tests of those samples stayed under it; the authors think salt makes the mouse test understate the toxicity (Suzuki, FY2020). Both reports say no poisoning has been traced to licensed makers' products. The finished food is not toxin-free. The FY2019 samples still held the equivalent of 3.5 to 6.9 MU/g.
Hazards the sources name: Clostridium, a major part of the flora of the bran-pickled ovaries; Tetrodotoxin in the raw ovaries (10² to 10³ MU/g), a deadly poison; some remains in the finished food.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The bran method is said to have started with fugu brought from Hokkaido, pickled in bran as ship's food and winter food. When the 1983 change to the Food Sanitation Act ordered all fugu viscera discarded, Ishikawa makers were allowed to continue, because it is a Kaga industry going back to the Edo period with no recorded accidents (MAFF). Health ministry research reports for fiscal 2019 and 2020 (Suzuki) again note that no poisoning has been traced to licensed makers' products, and test six makers' products by instrument analysis.
