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Cereals and bread from Gaul and Hispania

Gaulish and Iberian beer-froth leaven

Pliny the Elder wrote that in Gaul and Spain people made an intoxicating drink by steeping grain in water, and used the foam that thickened on top of it as a leaven. He said this made their bread lighter than bread made elsewhere. This entry is a reconstruction from that text; no recipe or amounts survive.

Fully documentedCereals and bread

Recipe

No fixed amounts recordedPliny gives no amounts. This is a reconstruction from his description only.
Grain and water, steeped and fermented into a drink[pliny-14-29]
Foam skimmed from the fermenting drink[pliny-18-12][pliny-latin-18]
Flour for the bread dough[pliny-18-12]
Starterother: yeasty foam from a fermenting grain drink
Start
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SugarsLactic acid

What changes: Grain steeped in water ferments into a frothing drink

Step 1 of 4
Steep grain in water and let it ferment into a drink
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented

Pliny says these drinks were made in different ways and under different names in Gaul and Spain, and that the Spanish ones could be kept until they were old. Output: fermenting grain drink.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Pliny the Elder wrote that in Gaul and Spain people made an intoxicating drink by steeping grain in water, and used the foam that thickened on top of it as a leaven. He said this made their bread lighter than bread made elsewhere. This entry is a reconstruction from that text; no recipe or amounts survive.

What makes this one different

Romans of Pliny's time mostly leavened bread with a piece of sour dough kept from the day before, or with leavens made from millet or bran kneaded with grape must. The Gauls and Iberians used the yeasty foam of their beer instead, which Pliny credits for their lighter bread.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Barm (later European practice)Before commercial yeast, bakers bought the yeasty foam or dregs from finished beer fermentations directly from breweries.

Safety

A historical reconstruction from a few lines of Pliny.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Pliny the Elder, Natural History XVIII.12 (Bostock and Riley chapter numbering; XVIII.68 in the Latin section numbering), with the grain drinks described in XIV.29 (XIV.149). Lahue et al. 2020 write that before commercial yeast, the main yeast source for bakers and housewives was the foam or dregs collected from finished beer fermentations and sold by breweries, until compressed yeasts outcompeted brewers' yeast by the early 1800s.

Microbes
No study we found names its microbes.
Process times
The sources we found give no figure for how long any of its steps take.
Temperature, salt and pH
The sources we found give no temperature, salt or pH figure for any of its steps.
  1. [pliny-18-12] Pliny the Elder, The Natural History, Book XVIII, chapter 12 (Wheat), translated by J. Bostock and H.T. Riley, London, H.G. Bohn, 1856; Project Gutenberg eBook 61113 (Volume 4 of 6). Latin text at XVIII.68 on LacusCurtiusbook
  2. [pliny-14-29] Pliny the Elder, The Natural History, Book XIV, chapter 29 (Liquors with the strength of wine made from water and corn), translated by J. Bostock and H.T. Riley, Bohn, 1855; Project Gutenberg eBook 59131 (Volume 3 of 6). Latin text at XIV.149 on LacusCurtiusbook
  3. [pliny-18-26] Pliny the Elder, The Natural History, Book XVIII, chapter 26 (The various kinds of leaven), translated by J. Bostock and H.T. Riley, Bohn, 1856; Project Gutenberg eBook 61113 (Volume 4 of 6). Latin text at XVIII.102-104 on LacusCurtiusbook
  4. [pliny-latin-18] Pliny the Elder, Naturalis Historia, Book XVIII (Latin text), LacusCurtius, ed. B. Thayer; sections 68 (spuma ita concreta pro fermento) and 102-104 (leavens)book
  5. [lahue2020] Lahue C., Madden A.A., Dunn R.R., Smukowski Heil C. 2020, History and domestication of Saccharomyces cerevisiae in bread baking, Frontiers in Genetics 11:584718, doi:10.3389/fgene.2020.584718paper