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Fish and seafood from Scandinavia
In medieval Scandinavia, salmon was salted and buried, and the buried fish turned into a sour, strong-smelling ferment. The name means "buried salmon", and a second name, surlax, means "sour salmon". Today's gravlax is a quick salt-sugar-dill cure with no fermentation.
A short entry: the sources we found record only what is said here about Gravlax itself.
| Salmon | [oxford-companion] |
| Salt | [wp] |
What changes: The salmon is salted
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
In medieval Scandinavia, salmon was salted and buried, and the buried fish turned into a sour, strong-smelling ferment. The name means "buried salmon", and a second name, surlax, means "sour salmon". Today's gravlax is a quick salt-sugar-dill cure with no fermentation.
The old gravlax was a fermented fish, close to Norwegian rakfisk and Swedish surströmming. Modern gravlax is only cured with salt, sugar and dill for between twelve hours and a few days, so it is a boundary product with no fermentation.
Salted fish kept without air is where Clostridium botulinum type E thrives. The FDA gives its growth limits as a minimum of 3.3 °C, a minimum of pH 5 and a maximum of 5 % water-phase salt, and nothing about a buried, salted fish reliably puts it outside them. Do not bury fish to copy this old method; we found no tested safe version. Modern gravad fish is eaten raw and can carry Listeria. Sweden's food agency found it in 11 of 290 retail samples of cold-smoked or gravad fish in 2016, three of them above the EU limit of 100 per gram; packs were usually labelled for storage at 4 °C. For fish eaten without thorough cooking, the FDA's parasite control is freezing at −20 °C or below for 7 days.
Hazards the sources name: Listeria monocytogenes, in modern cold-smoked or gravad fish (11 of 290 Swedish retail samples, 2016).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
A man from Jämtland called Olafuer Gravlax is named in 1348, and a Martin Surlax in the Stockholm records of 1509; both were probably makers of buried salmon (Oxford Companion to Food). The word joins grav, to dig or bury, with lax, salmon.
