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Alcoholic drinks from West Bengal
Boiled low-grade rice is cooled on a mat, dusted with a herbal starter tablet (bakhar or ranu) and shut in a smoke-sterilised earthen pot for 3 to 4 days. Moulds turn the starch to sugar, yeasts make alcohol and lactic bacteria sour it, and the glutinous mash is then diluted with water and sieved into a creamy, mildly alcoholic drink. Made in 6 steps over 3 days – 4 days. The longest step, pack into the pot, close the lid and leave undisturbed, takes 3–4 days (Ghosh K 2014). Moulds and yeasts, most numerous on day 2 of fermentation and Lactic acid bacteria (Lactobacillus brevis, Lactiplantibacillus argentoratensis) and Bifidobacterium, rising through fermentation do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 3–4 daysMeasured[ghosh2014] | Pack into the pot, close the lid and leave undisturbed |
|---|---|---|
| Acidity | pH 6.8 → 3.61Measured[ghosh2014] | Pack into the pot, close the lid and leave undisturbed |
| 200 g | Low-grade parboiled rice · Boiled in water at a rice to water ratio of 1:1.2[ghosh2014] |
| 2–3 g | Bakhar (ranu) starter, powdered · 2 g in summer, 3 g in winter. Roots, bark, leaves and tubers of several forest plants mixed with rice dust and shaped into balls of about 10 g; one account adds old ferment, a later one says none is used[ghosh2014][ghosh2021] |
| About 6 parts to 1 | Drinking water · Added to the fermented mash before sieving[ghosh2014] |
| Starter | koji/qu/mold-starter (bakhar in Bengali, ranu tablet in Hindi) |
Total time across the recorded steps: 3 days – 4 days
What changes: Burning rice straw heats and smokes the earthen pot clean
Output: clean, smoked pot.
Microbes at work in this step
heat and smoke from burning rice straw sterilise the pot
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Handia is drunk diluted and sieved as soon as the pot is opened, after only 3 to 4 days. Its starter is built on forest plant parts; brewers hold that without them the ferment rots.
In one measured village batch the pH fell from 6.81 to 3.61 within four days. It is a fresh, unpasteurised drink that is sieved and drunk soon after the pot is opened.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
In 1942 the Bengal excise report called the drink pachwai, handia or mama, chiefly drunk by Adivasi tribes as food and stimulant; home brewing was allowed for private use at the Bandhana and Paush Sankranti festivals. In Bihar it was the everyday drink of the Santals of Chota Nagpur, and Santal women objected to pachwai bought from a shop.
