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Sauces and condiments from Copenhagen, Denmark
Noma-style garum is a savoury liquid made from meat, squid or another protein instead of fish. The protein is mixed with koji, salt and water and held at 60 °C for 10 to 12 weeks, so that enzymes from the koji break it down. At that heat the book says microbes do not take part, which makes it closer to enzyme digestion than to fermentation.
| Animal or plant protein | Beef, squid, mackerel and clams are named; peas work but should not stay in the heat as long as animal protein[noma-garum] |
| Koji | Adding it cuts the time by more than half; amount not given in the excerpt[noma-garum] |
| SaltAbout 12 % of the mix by weight | [noma-garum] |
| Water | A version without water gave a much thicker paste like Thai shrimp paste[noma-garum] |
| Starter | koji, added to the mix; its enzymes break down the protein |
Total time across the recorded steps: 2.3 months – 2.8 months
What changes: Protein, koji, salt and water are mixed into a slurry
In the authors' roasted chicken wing recipe the koji is pulsed into small pieces, mixed with the chopped wings, salt and stock, and plastic wrap is laid on the surface before the lid goes on. Output: slurry.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Noma-style garum is a savoury liquid made from meat, squid or another protein instead of fish. The protein is mixed with koji, salt and water and held at 60 °C for 10 to 12 weeks, so that enzymes from the koji break it down. At that heat the book says microbes do not take part, which makes it closer to enzyme digestion than to fermentation. Made in 4 steps over 2.3 months – 2.8 months. The longest step, hold warm, takes 2.3–2.8 months (Redzepi R 2018) and runs at 60 °C (Redzepi R 2018). Salt is 12 % (Redzepi R 2018). Koji (mould-grown grain; its enzymes break down the protein). The book says 60 °C precludes microbial activity and that without koji many garums are autolysis rather than fermentation does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 2.3–2.8 monthsReported[noma-garum] | Hold warm |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 60 °CReported[noma-garum] | Hold warm |
| Salt | 12 %Reported[noma-garum] | Mix protein, koji, salt and water |
Traditional garum and fish sauce rely on fish guts and months of sun (6 to 9 months at about 30 °C for Carthaginian garum, 9 to 12 months for Thai fish sauce). Noma's version uses koji enzymes and a 60 °C room to take 10 to 12 weeks.
The room is held at 60 °C, above every maximum growth temperature in the FDA's table of limiting conditions (the highest is 55 °C for Bacillus cereus, with growth delayed past 24 hours; 48 °C for proteolytic Clostridium botulinum). The book adds that about 12 % salt by weight is a second barrier. That 12 % is by weight of the whole mix, not the water-phase salt the FDA table uses, so the two cannot be compared directly. The FDA table is for pathogens of concern in seafood processing, and FDA says its values may not apply to other processing conditions. This heat does not kill Clostridium botulinum spores, and it must hold. Below those limits (a power cut, a weak keep-warm setting), a covered, low-acid meat or fish mix is the kind of low-oxygen food where WHO says the bacterium grows.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The Noma Guide to Fermentation (Redzepi and Zilber, Artisan 2018) sets out the Noma method. The book credits Thomas Frebel, the former head of Noma's test kitchen, with suggesting meat instead of fish. Noma Projects sells a Mushroom Garum. In January 2023 Redzepi announced that Noma would end regular restaurant service and become a food innovation lab; its last regular dinner service was in Kyoto, ending 18 December 2024.
