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Ricotta is a boundary entry, set by heat and a plant extract, not by microbes. Sheep whey from pecorino making is heated in a tinned copper cauldron to about 65 °C, raw sheep milk is added, and salt goes in near 75 °C. At about 78 °C an infusion of cut fig twigs is stirred in and a bunch of the twigs is held deep in the whey, so the proteins rise as flakes.
Fig twigs (ficore), bark scored and buds removed, steeped in boiling waterfresh twigs 15–20 cm long
The milky sap mixes into the water; the infusion is filtered through cotton[pat-sheet][onaf-sheet]
Starter
none; heat and an infusion of fig twigs make the proteins rise
Total time across the recorded steps: 0.1 min
Start
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What changes:Raw sheep milk is stirred into the whey once it reaches about 65 °C
Step 1 of 5
Heat the whey and add milk
Time
Not documented
Temperature
65 °C
Reported
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Method
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
At a glance
Ricotta is a boundary entry, set by heat and a plant extract, not by microbes. Sheep whey from pecorino making is heated in a tinned copper cauldron to about 65 °C, raw sheep milk is added, and salt goes in near 75 °C. At about 78 °C an infusion of cut fig twigs is stirred in and a bunch of the twigs is held deep in the whey, so the proteins rise as flakes. Made in 5 steps over 0.1 min. The longest step, add the fig-twig infusion, takes 0.1 min (ONAF (Organizzazione Nazionale Assaggiatori F…) and runs at 78 °C (Regione Abruzzo).
The flakes are brought up with fig twigs, a plant coagulant, instead of acid or heat alone. Salt goes into the whey at about 75 °C and the fig infusion at about 78 °C.
Size
Cylinder or truncated cone with flat faces up to 18 cm across and a side up to 11 cm high; 0.5–2 kg
Rind
None; basket marks on a pale straw-yellow surface
Season
Not made in late summer, when the flock is in the mountains and the ewes lamb at the end of August
The ONAF sheet says ricotta is very old, traces it to Sumerian and ancient Egyptian civilisations and to Homer's Odyssey, and reports a Christian tradition that Saint Francis of Assisi taught Lazio shepherds the technique. It credits the Aragonese, who ruled Abruzzo briefly between the 1400s and 1500s, with confirming sheep rearing in the local economy. Until about 50 years before the sheet was written, pecorino and its by-products, above all sheep ricotta made from the leftover whey, were the shepherds' staple food. The product is not officially dated, but the sheet says it has been made for at least 25 years, the minimum for a traditional agri-food product.