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Sauces and condiments from Japan — first made in Yanai, Yamaguchi
Saishikomi is soy sauce brewed twice. A normal soybean and wheat koji is mixed not with brine but with raw soy sauce pressed from an earlier mash, then ripened for a year and a half to two years or more. The result is dark, thick and rich in nitrogen, yet lower in salt than koikuchi.
| Soybeans and about the same amount of wheat, made into shoyu koji | [jas-shoyu][maff-hakko] |
| Raw soy sauce (kiage) pressed from a finished first-brew moromi, in place of brine | [jas-shoyu][maff-hakko] |
| Starter | koji mould on the soybean and wheat koji; the second mash ferments in raw soy sauce |
Total time across the recorded steps: 18 months
What changes: Koji mould grows over a soybean and wheat mix, as for ordinary soy sauce
Soybeans and about the same amount of wheat, as for koikuchi.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Saishikomi is soy sauce brewed twice. A normal soybean and wheat koji is mixed not with brine but with raw soy sauce pressed from an earlier mash, then ripened for a year and a half to two years or more. The result is dark, thick and rich in nitrogen, yet lower in salt than koikuchi. Made in 5 steps over 18 months. The longest step, ripen the second moromi, takes at least 18 months (MAFF 2023). Salt is 15 % (宇都宮由佳 (Utsunomiya Y.)). Koji mould (kōji-kin) grown on the soybean and wheat koji does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | at least 18 monthsReported[maff-hakko][utsunomiya-fc29] | Ripen the second moromi |
|---|---|---|
| Salt | 15 %Reported[utsunomiya-fc29] | Press and finish |
The koji is the same as koikuchi, but it is packed in raw soy sauce instead of brine and ripened for one and a half to two years or more. MAFF describes it as thicker and richer in taste and colour than koikuchi, with somewhat less salt.
MAFF says its salt is somewhat lower than koikuchi's, and a Yamaguchi maker puts it near 15 %. The JAS standard asks for a well fermented and ripened sauce with no off-taste, off-smell or mould.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Takata Denbē, fourth head of the Yanai house Takata (Tomoya), is said in the Takata kanro shōyu record of 1895 to have devised it around the Tenmei era (1781–1789). Presented to the lord Kikkawa, it was praised as "kanro, kanro" (delicious), which gave kanro shōyu its name. By the Anei years (1772–1781) Yanai soy sauce was sold to nearby islands and across the Seto Inland Sea, and by 1908 Yanai merchants shipped as far as Hawaii, Korea and Taiwan. A 1978 paper reports it brewed in 23 prefectures by then.
