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Sauces and condiments from Aichi, Japan

Shiro shoyu (white soy sauce)白醤油

Shiro shoyu is a very pale soy sauce made mostly from wheat with a little soybean. The wheat is polished and the soybeans roasted, both are soaked and steamed into koji, and the mash is brined in a stronger-than-usual brine and ripened for about three months, leaving out steps that darken it or keeping them very short. It is usually left unheated to keep the colour, and it is under 1 % of Japan's soy sauce.

Recipe

Amounts from a sourceThe Japanese Agricultural Standard defines shiro shoyu by its koji of a little soybean with wheat. The cited sources differ a little on the split, Utsunomiya giving wheat 80–90 % and soybean 10–20 %, and MAFF about 9 parts wheat to 1 part soybean.
Wheat80–90 % (MAFF gives about 9 parts to 1)Polished before soaking[utsunomiya-fc28][maff-hakko]
Soybeans10–20 % (MAFF gives about 1 part to 9 of wheat)Roasted, then soaked together with the wheat[utsunomiya-fc28][maff-hakko]
Salt brineStronger than the brine used for koikuchi[maff-hakko]
Wheat glutenOptional[jas-shoyu]
Starterseed koji (tane-koji), used to make koji from the steamed wheat and soybeans

Total time across the recorded steps: 3 months

Start
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What changes: Polished wheat and roasted soybeans soak and are steamed

Step 1 of 5
Polish the wheat, roast the soybeans, soak and steam
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Moulds

The wheat is polished, the soybeans are roasted, both are soaked together and steamed to make the koji. Output: steamed wheat and soybean.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Shiro shoyu is a very pale soy sauce made mostly from wheat with a little soybean. The wheat is polished and the soybeans roasted, both are soaked and steamed into koji, and the mash is brined in a stronger-than-usual brine and ripened for about three months, leaving out steps that darken it or keeping them very short. It is usually left unheated to keep the colour, and it is under 1 % of Japan's soy sauce. Made in 5 steps over 3 months. The longest step, ferment and ripen, takes 3 months (MAFF 2023). Salt is 17.9 % (Japan Soy Sauce Brewers' Association 2006). Koji mould (kōji-kin), whose enzymes stay active because the sauce is not heated does most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main step3 monthsReported[maff-hakko]Ferment and ripen
Salt17.9 %Reported[jssa2007]Draw off, grade and keep unheated

What makes this one different

Koikuchi uses about equal soybean and wheat, a salt water of 1–1.2 times the koji volume and about 8 months of ripening (MAFF). Shiro shoyu is 80–90 % wheat, uses a stronger brine, takes about 3 months, leaves out steps that darken it, or keeps them very short, and is usually not heated. JAS caps special-grade total nitrogen below 0.80 % and asks special grade for at least 12 % reducing sugar, so it is light in umami but sweet.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Shiro-dashiShiro shoyu blended with dashi; a growing use for the sauce.

Safety

Because it is usually not heated, unheated shiro shoyu can ferment to alcohol and foam in summer like beer, so before the war it was sold mainly from October to March. A study from the Aichi Food Industry Research Institute (founded in Nagoya in 1956) found that lowering the pH and adding benzoic acid within the permitted amount held the alcohol fermentation down (Utsunomiya). The JAS standard asks for a sauce with no off-taste, off-smell or mould.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

MAFF dates shiro shoyu to about 200 years ago in Hekinan, Aichi. Utsunomiya notes two origin accounts. In one, Naitō Yasaku of Shinkawa, Hekinan, noticed a pale liquid seeping from a Kinzanji-like miso around 1920 and passed the method to Torii Shinroku. In the other, around 1823 the monk son of a tamari brewer's family in Yamazaki village, now Atsuta in Nagoya, taught his father to make a pale tamari from 3 parts wheat to 1 part soybean; the father called it "usubeni-bai shōyu" and sold it to restaurants, and it spread from the Chita Peninsula to Mikawa. The Aichi shiro shoyu brewers' association was formed in 1936, production stopped in wartime until about 1950 and by around 1960 thirteen plants made 3,000 koku a year.

  1. [utsunomiya-fc28] 宇都宮由佳 (Utsunomiya Y.), 伊勢湾・三河湾を囲むたまりしょうゆ・しろしょうゆ文化圏(愛知・岐阜・三重)(the tamari and shiro shoyu culture around Ise Bay and Mikawa Bay), Kikkoman Institute for International Food Culture, FOOD CULTURE No. 28, pp. 19–25paper
  2. [jas-shoyu] MAFF, Japanese Agricultural Standard for soy sauce (しょうゆの日本農林規格), MAFF Notification No. 1703 of 13 September 2004, article 2 and article 7 (shiro shoyu)spec
  3. [maff-hakko] MAFF 2023, にっぽんの発酵食品 (Japan's fermented foods), chapter 3, soy sauce tablegov
  4. [jssa2007] Japan Soy Sauce Brewers' Association, Japan Soy Sauce Industry Federation and Japan Soy Sauce Technology Center 2006 (revised 19 March 2007), しょうゆの表示等に関する業界申し合わせ (industry agreement on soy sauce labelling), table of normal salt per typeother