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Shiro shoyu is a very pale soy sauce made mostly from wheat with a little soybean. The wheat is polished and the soybeans roasted, both are soaked and steamed into koji, and the mash is brined in a stronger-than-usual brine and ripened for about three months, leaving out steps that darken it or keeping them very short. It is usually left unheated to keep the colour, and it is under 1 % of Japan's soy sauce.
Amounts from a sourceThe Japanese Agricultural Standard defines shiro shoyu by its koji of a little soybean with wheat. The cited sources differ a little on the split, Utsunomiya giving wheat 80–90 % and soybean 10–20 %, and MAFF about 9 parts wheat to 1 part soybean.
seed koji (tane-koji), used to make koji from the steamed wheat and soybeans
Total time across the recorded steps: 3 months
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What changes:Polished wheat and roasted soybeans soak and are steamed
Step 1 of 5
Polish the wheat, roast the soybeans, soak and steam
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Moulds
The wheat is polished, the soybeans are roasted, both are soaked together and steamed to make the koji. Output: steamed wheat and soybean.
Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Method
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
At a glance
Shiro shoyu is a very pale soy sauce made mostly from wheat with a little soybean. The wheat is polished and the soybeans roasted, both are soaked and steamed into koji, and the mash is brined in a stronger-than-usual brine and ripened for about three months, leaving out steps that darken it or keeping them very short. It is usually left unheated to keep the colour, and it is under 1 % of Japan's soy sauce. Made in 5 steps over 3 months. The longest step, ferment and ripen, takes 3 months (MAFF 2023). Salt is 17.9 % (Japan Soy Sauce Brewers' Association 2006). Koji mould (kōji-kin), whose enzymes stay active because the sauce is not heated does most of the fermenting.
Koikuchi uses about equal soybean and wheat, a salt water of 1–1.2 times the koji volume and about 8 months of ripening (MAFF). Shiro shoyu is 80–90 % wheat, uses a stronger brine, takes about 3 months, leaves out steps that darken it, or keeps them very short, and is usually not heated. JAS caps special-grade total nitrogen below 0.80 % and asks special grade for at least 12 % reducing sugar, so it is light in umami but sweet.
Shiro-dashiShiro shoyu blended with dashi; a growing use for the sauce.
Safety
Because it is usually not heated, unheated shiro shoyu can ferment to alcohol and foam in summer like beer, so before the war it was sold mainly from October to March. A study from the Aichi Food Industry Research Institute (founded in Nagoya in 1956) found that lowering the pH and adding benzoic acid within the permitted amount held the alcohol fermentation down (Utsunomiya). The JAS standard asks for a sauce with no off-taste, off-smell or mould.
MAFF dates shiro shoyu to about 200 years ago in Hekinan, Aichi. Utsunomiya notes two origin accounts. In one, Naitō Yasaku of Shinkawa, Hekinan, noticed a pale liquid seeping from a Kinzanji-like miso around 1920 and passed the method to Torii Shinroku. In the other, around 1823 the monk son of a tamari brewer's family in Yamazaki village, now Atsuta in Nagoya, taught his father to make a pale tamari from 3 parts wheat to 1 part soybean; the father called it "usubeni-bai shōyu" and sold it to restaurants, and it spread from the Chita Peninsula to Mikawa. The Aichi shiro shoyu brewers' association was formed in 1936, production stopped in wartime until about 1950 and by around 1960 thirteen plants made 3,000 koku a year.