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Fermentation Atlas

Alcoholic drinks from Andong, North Gyeongsang, and other parts of Korea

Traditional soju (e.g. Andong soju)소주

Traditional soju is a spirit distilled from a fermented mash of rice and nuruk, the Korean wheat-cake starter. In the Andong master's method, rice and home-made nuruk ferment about 15 days, and the mash is distilled in a pot still (sojutgori) until the spirit running off has fallen to about 45 % alcohol. It is a different drink from green-bottle soju, which is diluted neutral spirit. Made in 6 steps over 35 days. The longest step, make and age the wheat nuruk, takes 20 days (Han J.-G. 2004). Saccharomyces cerevisiae, including strains taken from traditional nuruk and Aspergillus and other moulds of the nuruk, which turn the rice starch to sugar do most of the fermenting.

Key numbers
Main step20 daysReported[seoul2004]Make and age the wheat nuruk
Temperature25 °CMeasured[lee2017]Ferment the mash

Recipe

Amounts from a sourceThe household recipe of Jo Ok-hwa, holder of North Gyeongsang Intangible Cultural Property No. 12 for Andong soju, as printed in Seoul Shinmun in 2004.
1 kgWheat, ground · Made into nuruk, the starter cake[seoul2004]
5 kgRice · Washed, soaked and steamed hard (godubap)[seoul2004]
As neededWater · Mixed in with the nuruk and rice[seoul2004]
Starterkoji/qu/mold-starter (wheat nuruk)

Total time across the recorded steps: 35 days

Start
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shapes, not to countSaccharomyces cerevisiaeAspergillusMouldsLactic acid bacteria

What changes: Moulds and yeasts grow through the pressed wheat cakes over about 20 days

Step 1 of 6
Make and age the wheat nuruk
Time
20 days
Reported
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Saccharomyces cerevisiae
Aspergillus
Moulds
Lactic acid bacteria
Yeasts

Ground wheat is kneaded with water and trodden into a mould. The dried nuruk is left out one night in the dew to take away its musty smell. Output: nuruk.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

What makes this one different

Traditional soju is distilled from a nuruk rice mash much like yakju, in a pot still, and bottled strong. Green-bottle soju is neutral spirit diluted to 15–35 % with water and flavourings.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Vacuum-distilled sojuDistilled under reduced pressure at about 50–60 °C, giving a spirit lower in fruity esters and higher in isobutanol than pot-distilled soju; strength runs 29.6–59.9 % depending on the cuts.
  • Munbaeju, okroju, igangjuOther traditional distilled soju revived after rice was allowed again in 1991.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Distilling reached Korea with the Mongol invasions of the late Goryeo period (13th century), and the sojutgori was used until the first half of the 20th century. In Andong, soju became the household spirit of scholar-official families. Production stopped under Japanese rule and again after a 1961–62 ban on rice for liquor. Jo Ok-hwa received a licence to make Andong soju in September 1990, and Lee and colleagues date the return of rice-based soju to 1991.

  1. [seoul2004] Han J.-G. 2004, 술따라 맛따라 – 안동소주 (Andong soju), Seoul Shinmun, 20 February 2004 (interview and recipe of Jo Ok-hwa)web
  2. [lee2017] Lee D.-H. et al. 2017, Qualities of distilled liquor using Saccharomyces cerevisiae 88-4 separated from traditional nuruk, Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology 49(3):279–285, doi:10.9721/KJFST.2017.49.3.279paper
  3. [kim2023] Kim U.S., Kim J.H., Kim T.W., Choi J.H. 2023, Analysis of distillation characteristics via CFD of Korean traditional sojutgori and study on structure for distillation efficiency enhancement, Food Science and Nutrition, doi:10.1002/fsn3.3099paper
  4. [yoon2025] Yoon J.A., Kim M.D. 2025, Distillation method influences flavor characteristics of soju, Food Science and Biotechnology, doi:10.1007/s10068-024-01784-wpaper
  5. [tak2024] Tak H.J., Lee N.R., Yang S., Kim S.Y., Lee C.H. 2024, Qualitative and quantitative metabolite comparison of Korean traditional alcoholic beverages, takju, yakju and traditional soju, Foods 13(6):956, doi:10.3390/foods13060956paper
  6. [WP:Nuruk] Wikipedia, Nuruk (outline only)wiki