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Soy and legumes from China

Soy wine, rou dau nanh and kiu-tsee (soybean in alcoholic ferments) — boundary

A boundary entry for old drinks and starters where soybeans play a part in an alcoholic ferment. The best-documented is kiu-tsee, a Cantonese wine starter of boiled rice, soybeans and powdered Glycosmis leaves, moulded for a few days and then dried. Soy wines were also made by steeping soy nuggets or black soybeans in grain wine.

A short entry: the sources we found record only what is said here about Soy wine, rou dau nanh and kiu-tsee itself.

DocumentedSoy and legumes10 days – 16 days

Recipe

Amounts from a sourceThe 1878 kiu-tsee recipe of Dabry de Thiersant, as summarised by Shurtleff and Aoyagi, makes 1-lb bricks of starter.
Rice, boiled75 lb[sic-spec]
Soybeans, well cooked27 lb[sic-spec]
Dried, powdered leaves of Chinese glycosmis (Glycosmis citrifolia)14 lb[sic-spec]
Kiu-tsee from an earlier batch4 ozThe seed starter[sic-spec]
Starterbackslop: powdered starter from an earlier batch

Total time across the recorded steps: 10 days – 16 days

Start
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What changes: Boiled rice is sprinkled with cooked soybeans, leaf powder and old starter

Step 1 of 4
Boil rice and soybeans and mix in leaves and old starter
Time
Not documented
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented
Which microbes the steps name, step by step
Moulds

Output: rice spread to cool, sprinkled with soybeans, leaf powder and starter.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

A boundary entry for old drinks and starters where soybeans play a part in an alcoholic ferment. The best-documented is kiu-tsee, a Cantonese wine starter of boiled rice, soybeans and powdered Glycosmis leaves, moulded for a few days and then dried. Soy wines were also made by steeping soy nuggets or black soybeans in grain wine. Made in 4 steps over 10 days – 16 days. The longest step, dry in shade, then sun, takes 6–11 days (Shurtleff W).

Key numbers
Main step6–11 daysReported[sic-spec]Dry in shade, then sun

What makes this one different

Kiu-tsee puts soybeans (27 lb to 75 lb of rice) and a leaf powder into a rice wine starter. The soy wines are steeped drinks, not soy ferments, which is why this is a boundary entry.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Soy nugget wine (shih chiu)Mentioned by Wang Hsi-chih in about AD 346–379. A recipe quoted in about AD 535 apparently soaked soy nuggets in a grain-based alcoholic drink or medicinal tincture.
  • Tou-lin chiuA sake-like drink from black soybeans in the Pen-ts'ao kang-mu (1578–97).
  • Rou dau nanhA distilled soy spirit once made in northern and central Vietnam, perhaps with rice.
  • Soymilk and tofu-whey winesCornell thesis (Yee 1976); about 25 % sucrose added and fermented with wine yeast to 12 % alcohol or more.

Safety

No source we read names the moulds that cover the starter bricks. The WHO says some moulds make mycotoxins, that aflatoxins can occur on rice and soybeans, and that mould grows under warm, damp conditions.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

The kiu-tsee recipe is known from one 1878 article by Dabry de Thiersant in the Bulletin of the Society for Acclimatization, cited by Paillieux in 1880 (Shurtleff and Aoyagi).

  1. [sic-spec] Shurtleff W., Aoyagi A., History of Specialty Fermented Soyfoods, SoyInfo Center (chapter of an unpublished manuscript), sections on soy wine and Cantonese wine starterbook
  2. [who-mycotoxins] World Health Organization, Mycotoxins (fact sheet)gov