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Soy and legumes from Okinawa
Firm Okinawan tofu is cut into cubes, dried for a few days, washed in awamori and then ripened for months in a paste of red koji soaked in awamori. Unlike moulded Chinese furu, no mould is sown on the tofu; the enzymes come from the koji, and the cubes turn red, soft and mellow.
| Rice, for the red koji5 kg | Soaked overnight, drained 3 h, steamed, then seeded with Monascus[miyazato1980] |
| Red koji, sun-dried3.0 kg | [miyazato1980] |
| Aged awamori (kusu), 43 % alcohol3.7 L | Mixed with the red koji, left overnight and minced into the soaking paste[miyazato1980] |
| Dried tofu cubes, 2 × 2 × 2 cm200 g per 680 g of paste | [miyazato1980] |
| White rice koji and a little salt | Used with the red koji in one family's home method[sic-ftofu] |
| Starter | red koji, made by growing Monascus on steamed rice |
Total time across the recorded steps: 31 days – 6.1 months
What changes: Monascus mould grows through the steamed rice and turns it red
Output: red koji.
Microbes at work in this step
Monascus grows through the steamed rice and turns it red
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Firm Okinawan tofu is cut into cubes, dried for a few days, washed in awamori and then ripened for months in a paste of red koji soaked in awamori. Unlike moulded Chinese furu, no mould is sown on the tofu; the enzymes come from the koji, and the cubes turn red, soft and mellow. Made in 5 steps over 31 days – 6.1 months. The longest step, ripen the cubes in the paste, takes 28 days – 6 months (Miyazato K 1980) and runs at 25–30 °C (Miyazato K 1980). Monascus sp. (strain 3403, isolated from Hong Kong red koji), through the red koji's enzymes and Monascus aspartic proteinases and carboxypeptidases, which may play important roles in ripening the tofu do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 28 days – 6 monthsReported[miyazato1980][sic-ftofu] | Ripen the cubes in the paste |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 25–30 °CReported[miyazato1980] | Ripen the cubes in the paste |
Unlike Chinese red furu, no mould is sown on the tofu before it goes into the paste, and the paste is red koji in strong awamori rather than a salty brine. The tofu is dried first, and the ripening enzymes come from the koji.
Tofuyo is ripened with red koji, which is Monascus mould grown on rice. Some Monascus strains (M. purpureus and M. ruber) carry a working gene for citrinin, a mould toxin that harms the kidney, and M. pilosus, the species mainly used in Japan, does not (Fukami 2021). The 1980 trial names only Monascus sp. Shurtleff and Aoyagi describe red koji in general as made with M. purpureus, without naming the species for tofuyo. No source we read measured citrinin in tofuyo, and a home kitchen cannot test for it.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The earliest direct record is in the Gozen Honzo of 1832, a book on food and medicine (Shurtleff and Aoyagi; Fukami 2021). Tofuyo was eaten by the Ryukyu court and upper classes and later made famous by the Tsuji district of Naha. In 1985 only one small plant in Naha made it commercially (Shurtleff and Aoyagi).
