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Alcoholic drinks from West Bengal, India
Cholai is the rough country spirit of rural Bengal, distilled from a fermented mash of rice (and in some accounts jaggery). A Bengali encyclopedia describes a still of two joined earthen pots, with the vapour cooling in the empty upper pot and running out through a tube. A 1906 study of the same kind of rice spirit in Odisha records each stage (mould-grown rice cakes, a week or more in earthen vats, distillation in joined earthen jars), about three weeks in all. Made in 5 steps over 16 days – 20 days. The longest step, ferment the cakes with water and fresh rice in earthen vats, takes 8–10 days (Ray J.C. 1906). A Mucor species (probably Mucor racemosus), grown on the rice cakes from the bakhar and Bacteria, always found with the Mucor in bakhar, cakes and wort do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 8–10 daysReported[ray1906] | Ferment the cakes with water and fresh rice in earthen vats |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 29 °C → 34 °CMeasured[ray1906] | Mix with bakhar and keep in a basket |
| About 1 part per 100 parts of dry rice | Bakhar starter, powdered · A black, mouldy mix of powdered rice and the barks and roots of various plants, sold as walnut-sized balls[ray1906] |
| Half for cakes, half added fresh | Husked, sun-dried rice, steamed[ray1906] |
| Water[ray1906] | |
| Starter | koji/qu/mold-starter: bakhar (a mould starter of rice, bark and roots) |
Total time across the recorded steps: 16 days – 20 days
What changes: Washed rice is steamed soft over boiling water
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Cholai is distilled, unlike the rice beers such as handia drunk across the same region. Its starter, bakhar, is grown into thick mould cakes before the mash ferments, and in 1906 no yeast was added at any stage.
No safety limits specific to cholai were found. In 1906 some bakhar for undistilled rice beer held narcotic plants such as datura and nux vomica; none were found in the distilled spirit.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Ray's 1906 paper in the Journal of the Asiatic Society of Bengal called this the spirit consumed by the poor and traced the bakhar starter to kinva, named by Manu. Cholai is described in the Bengali encyclopedia Bharater Adibasi.
