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Cheese from France, Savoie and Haute-Savoie
Raw cow milk, sometimes partly skimmed, is seeded with natural starters and set with calf rennet at 31–34 °C. The rice- to maize-size curd is cooked to 51–55 °C, pressed at least 5 hours and brined. The wheel spends at least a week in a cold cellar and at least 21 days in a warm cellar, where the eyes form, and leaves the cellars no sooner than 75 days after making.
| Raw cow milk from herds that are at least 75 % Abondance, Montbéliarde or Tarentaise type | Kept at 8 °C or less on the farm; bactofugation, microfiltration, pasteurisation and similar treatments are banned[es-cdc][es-sd2020] |
| Natural starters (levains naturels), and possibly other cultures | [es-cdc] |
| Rennet, or a maceration of unweaned calf abomasum | [es-cdc] |
| Calcium chloride (optional, before renneting) | [es-cdc] |
| Salt (brine) | [es-cdc] |
| Starter | natural starters, with thermophilic lactobacilli |
Total time across the recorded steps: 30 days
What changes: Raw milk waits in a cold tank for no more than a day and a half
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Raw cow milk, sometimes partly skimmed, is seeded with natural starters and set with calf rennet at 31–34 °C. The rice- to maize-size curd is cooked to 51–55 °C, pressed at least 5 hours and brined. The wheel spends at least a week in a cold cellar and at least 21 days in a warm cellar, where the eyes form, and leaves the cellars no sooner than 75 days after making. Made in 10 steps over 30 days. The longest step, form the eyes in a warm cellar, takes at least 21 days (Cahier des charges de l'indication géographiq…) and runs at up to 25 °C (Cahier des charges de l'indication géographiq…). Natural starters and thermophilic lactobacilli; the group holds references for the strains specific to this cheese does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | at least 21 daysSet[es-cdc] | Form the eyes in a warm cellar |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | up to 25 °CSet[es-cdc] | Form the eyes in a warm cellar |
It must be made from raw milk with natural starters, where its 1996 summary still allowed thermised milk, and the curd may not be washed. It ripens at least 75 days, including at least 21 days in a warm cellar.
The milk stays raw, so the specification limits storage to 36 hours at 8 °C or less (48 hours at 4 °C or less) before renneting. The US FDA says ageing raw-milk cheese for 60 days may not remove E. coli O157:H7 and Salmonella, and Listeria may grow in certain cheeses during ageing. The CDC says people at higher risk, including pregnant women, people 65 or older and people with weak immunity, should avoid cheese made with raw milk unless it is heated to 165 °F (74 °C) or until steaming hot.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Cheese dairies (fruitières) made Emmental in Savoie from the start of the nineteenth century; the 1996 summary counts over 400 such dairies in 1908. The original 1996 rules allowed raw or thermised milk and a 70-day minimum; the current specification requires raw milk and 75 days.
