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Cheese from Turkey
Rennet sets raw milk into a curd that is drained for days, crumbled and salted. The crumbs are pressed hard into a skin bag or a clay pot, closed to keep air out, and ripened for months in a cool place. The Erzincan specification describes the result as a semi-hard, markedly acidic cheese that does not crumble easily, and the Talas specification as a firm, salty cheese without holes.
| Raw sheep's milk (Erzincan); at least 95 % sheep's milk4–5 litres of milk per kg of cheese | A little Morkaraman sheep's or goat's milk may be added, up to 5 %[erz-tp] |
| Rennet made from dried lamb or calf abomasum soaked in whey for a week1–3 litres per 100 litres of milk | [erz-tp] |
| Salt for the crumbled curd2–2.5 % spring salt (kaynak tuzu) from Kemah district | [erz-tp] |
| Nigella seed (Talas çömlek cheese only)At most 50 g per kg of cheese | [talas-tp] |
| Starter | Kazak goatskin-bag cheese is made from heated cow milk with a natural starter (Martin and Cotter 2023). |
Total time across the recorded steps: 4.7 months – 4.8 months
What changes: Rennet sets the warmed milk into a curd
The Erzincan specification has the milk filtered several times and rested about 2 h before renneting. The Talas specification first heats the milk at 50–55 °C for at least 30 min. Output: coagulum.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Rennet sets raw milk into a curd that is drained for days, crumbled and salted. The crumbs are pressed hard into a skin bag or a clay pot, closed to keep air out, and ripened for months in a cool place. The Erzincan specification describes the result as a semi-hard, markedly acidic cheese that does not crumble easily, and the Talas specification as a firm, salty cheese without holes. Made in 5 steps over 4.7 months – 4.8 months. The longest step, ripen cool, takes at least 4 months (TÜRKPATENT) and runs at -2–6 °C (TÜRKPATENT). Salt is 2–2.5 % (TÜRKPATENT). Enterococcus and Lactococcus do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | at least 4 monthsSet[erz-tp][talas-tp] | Ripen cool |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | -2–6 °CReported[erz-tp][celik2026] | Ripen cool |
| Salt | 2–2.5 %Set[erz-tp][celik2026] | Crumble and salt |
| Acidity | pH 4.4–5.5Measured[celik2026] | Ripen cool |
The cheese ripens inside its own container, packed tight so that no air gets in (the Talas pots are closed tightly and stood upside down), not on a shelf with an open rind. The curd is drained, then crumbled and salted as crumbs before it is packed.
Made the same way, each with what its own sources record.
Cheese from Romania, the Carpathians
Brânză de burduf is made from caș that has already soured for up to two weeks, then ground with salt, kneaded and packed into a stomach or bark tube. Telemea, another Romanian cheese, is ripened in brine instead.
Sources: Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity; Turbatu A.R.; European Commission; Doane C.F.; Wikipedia; US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
Raw-milk skin cheese relies on salt, acid and a long cool ripening. In the Erzincan study coliform bacteria were no longer detected after day 90 (vacuum bags and casing) or day 120 (plastic barrels). The Erzincan specification fixes a minimum ripening of 4 months because the milk is raw.
Hazards the sources name: Coliform bacteria (a hygiene indicator in raw-milk tulum).
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The Erzincan Tulum name was applied for on 21 August 2000 and registered as an origin name (No 30) on 29 August 2001; the register notes an amendment published in 2021. The Talas çömlek cheese was applied for on 23 November 2022 and registered as a mahreç işareti (No 1560) on 12 March 2024, and its specification says Kayseri has produced it for many years.
