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Sauces and condiments from China
Chinese high-salt liquid-state soy sauce is brewed like Japanese shoyu. Steamed soybeans and wheat are grown into koji, mixed with a lot of strong brine into a thin mash and left in tanks for months while bacteria and yeasts ferment it.
| Soybeans and/or defatted soybeans | [gbt18186] |
| Wheat, wheat flour and/or wheat bran | [gbt18186] |
| Koji mould (Aspergillus oryzae 3.042 in one study) | [wu2025] |
| Saturated brine2 parts brine to 1 part koji (by mass) | Gives a mash of 18 % salt (w/w) in the study[wu2025] |
| Starter | Aspergillus oryzae koji (strain 3.042 in one laboratory study) |
Total time across the recorded steps: 3 months
What changes: Soybeans are steamed and mixed with wheat or flour
Output: cooked soybeans and wheat.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Chinese high-salt liquid-state soy sauce is brewed like Japanese shoyu. Steamed soybeans and wheat are grown into koji, mixed with a lot of strong brine into a thin mash and left in tanks for months while bacteria and yeasts ferment it. Made in 5 steps over 3 months. The longest step, ferment the mash through the seasons, takes 3 months (Wu C 2025) and runs at 15–37 °C (Wu C 2025). Salt is 18 % (Wu C 2025). Aspergillus oryzae and Weissella and Staphylococcus do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 3 monthsReported[wu2025] | Ferment the mash through the seasons |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 15–37 °CReported[wu2025] | Ferment the mash through the seasons |
| Salt | 18 %Reported[wu2025] | Mix the koji with brine into a thin mash |
China's two brewing methods differ at the mash. Low-salt solid-state sauce mixes the koji (mostly defatted soybean and bran) with brine into a solid mash; high-salt liquid-state sauce mixes it with brine into a thin mash that ferments for months. Tasters found the liquid-state sauce richer in aroma, with more odour-active compounds (37 against 33).
The high salt holds back unwanted microbes while lactic bacteria lower the pH. The national standard draft also caps ammonium salts at 28 % of the amino nitrogen. Ethyl carbamate, which IARC classes as a probable human carcinogen (Group 2A), formed mostly during hot extraction and sterilisation in a study of one factory's Cantonese soy sauce, where levels across the process reached 44.8 µg/kg.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
An approval draft of the national standard GB/T 18186, posted in 2021 and written by a Foshan brewer, would replace GB 18186-2000. It splits brewed soy sauce into high-salt liquid-state and low-salt solid-state types and changes the standard from mandatory to recommended.
