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Sauces and condiments from China
Light soy sauce is the thin, salty Chinese soy sauce drawn first from a long brine fermentation. In the Cantonese method a soybean and wheat koji is mixed with about twice its volume of 18 % brine, fermented outdoors for months, and the liquid is drawn off; more brine on the residue gives later, lower-grade draws. The first draw, tóuchōu, is the best.
| Steamed soybeans and roasted, ground wheat | Given in one Guangdong factory study as about 1:3 (w/w)[zhou2019] |
| Koji starter, Aspergillus oryzae (with A. sojae in another factory) | [zhou2019][wu2025] |
| Salt brine, about 18 % (w/v in one study, by mass in another), added coldabout twice the koji volume | [zhou2019][wu2025] |
| Starter | Aspergillus oryzae koji; halophilic lactic bacteria and yeasts in the moromi |
Total time across the recorded steps: 4 months – 9 months
What changes: Soybeans are steamed and the wheat is roasted and ground
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Light soy sauce is the thin, salty Chinese soy sauce drawn first from a long brine fermentation. In the Cantonese method a soybean and wheat koji is mixed with about twice its volume of 18 % brine, fermented outdoors for months, and the liquid is drawn off; more brine on the residue gives later, lower-grade draws. The first draw, tóuchōu, is the best. Made in 7 steps over 4 months – 9 months. The longest step, ferment outdoors, takes 3–6 months (Wu Y 2025) and runs at 15 °C (Zhou K 2019). Salt is 18 % (Zhou K 2019). Aspergillus oryzae (koji mould), dominant early in the moromi and Tetragenococcus halophilus, which rises fast after about 15 days in brine and comes to dominate do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 3–6 monthsReported[wu2025][sic-shoyu] | Ferment outdoors |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 15 °CReported[zhou2019] | Ferment outdoors |
| Salt | 18 %Reported[zhou2019][wu2025] | Mix with cold brine |
| Acidity | pH 4.7Measured[zhou2019] | Blend, season and pasteurise |
Light soy sauce is the first and best liquid drawn from a long, high-salt brine fermentation, sold with little added colour. Later draws are weaker, and dark soy sauce is made from the same base with more caramel (or, in older practice, molasses). Unlike Japanese shoyu, the old Chinese method drew the sauce off by leaching instead of pressing.
Ethyl carbamate, a probable human carcinogen (IARC Group 2A), forms during Cantonese soy sauce production. In one factory study it was not detected in the koji or the early moromi and first appeared when the moromi pH fell to about 4.9. Across the process it ranged from not detected to 44.8 µg/kg. Most formed in hot extraction (40.6 %) and sterilisation (42.9 %). Ethanol and citrulline are the main precursors, and in laboratory brews the product fermented at 30 °C held 2.1 times as much as the one fermented at 15 °C.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Shurtleff and Aoyagi describe how Chinese soy sauce was made in large pots or vats left outdoors in the sun, open by day and covered at night, with the first draw sold as first grade and light soy sauce from the first drawing considered the best quality. They call the thin type shēngchōu and the thick dark type lǎochōu.
