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Cheese from Italy, Sicily, the Hyblean plateau
Whole raw cow milk is set at about 34 °C in a wooden tina vat with lamb or kid paste rennet and no added starter, so acid comes from the milk flora and the biofilm on the vat. The curd is broken to rice size, scalded with hot water, left on supports to dry about 20 hours, then sliced, stretched in water at about 80 °C and moulded into a long square block. The blocks are brined and ripen at least three months at 14–16 °C, traditionally hung in pairs on ropes.
| Whole raw cow milk from one or more milkings | [rag-dm1995][rag-eu2019] |
| Lamb or kid paste rennet dissolved in a salt solution | The 1995 summary sheet says calf or kid rennet; the decree says lamb or kid[rag-dm1995][rag-summary] |
| Water at 80 °C ± 5 °C, added while breaking the curd8 litres per hectolitre of milk | [rag-dm1995] |
| Ricotta whey or water at about 80 °C, for scalding and stretching the curd | [rag-dm1995] |
| Salt brine | [rag-dm1995] |
| Olive oil for the rind (optional) | [rag-dm1995][rag-eu2019] |
| Starter | none added; milk flora and the tina biofilm |
Total time across the recorded steps: 3 months
What changes: Lamb or kid rennet sets the raw milk in the wooden tina
Microbes at work in this step
no starter; Streptococcus thermophilus and thermophilic lactobacilli are released from the tina biofilm into the milk
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Whole raw cow milk is set at about 34 °C in a wooden tina vat with lamb or kid paste rennet and no added starter, so acid comes from the milk flora and the biofilm on the vat. The curd is broken to rice size, scalded with hot water, left on supports to dry about 20 hours, then sliced, stretched in water at about 80 °C and moulded into a long square block. The blocks are brined and ripen at least three months at 14–16 °C, traditionally hung in pairs on ropes. Made in 7 steps over 3 months. The longest step, ripen in a ventilated room, takes at least 3 months (European Commission 2019) and runs at 14–16 °C (Disciplinare di produzione della denominazion…). Streptococcus thermophilus, predominant in the tina biofilms and Lactobacillus delbrueckii subsp. lactis and thermophilic lactobacilli released from the tina do most of the fermenting.
| Main step | at least 3 monthsSet[rag-eu2019] | Ripen in a ventilated room |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 14–16 °CSet[rag-dm1995][rag-eu2019] | Ripen in a ventilated room |
A stretched-curd cheese made from raw milk with no added starter, soured by the milk flora and the biofilm of the wooden tina, with the curd left about 20 hours on supports to dry before stretching. It is shaped as a long square block of 12–16 kg and ripened hanging in pairs or on slats.
Made from raw milk. A study of 15 tina biofilms found no Salmonella, Listeria monocytogenes or E. coli O157:H7, but it tested the vats, not the milk or the finished cheese. ANSES advises pregnant women, young children, people over 65 and people with weak immunity not to eat raw-milk cheeses other than pressed cooked ones such as Gruyère, because of Listeria, Salmonella and Shiga-toxin E. coli. Ragusano is a stretched-curd cheese that ANSES does not name, so do not assume it counts as one of those.
Hazards the sources name: Salmonella, Listeria monocytogenes and Escherichia coli O157:H7, tested for and absent from 15 tina biofilms.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
Ragusano was regulated under Italian law for decades before the 1995 decree. The 2019 amendment set the three-month minimum ripening, raised the minimum weight to 12 kg and allowed ripening on slatted shelves.
