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Cheese from France, on the border of Burgundy and Champagne
Whole cow milk, sometimes seeded with commercial lactic cultures or whey, is set at 22–32 °C with animal rennet and left to curdle for at least 8 hours, so the curd is mainly lactic. The curd is ladled into moulds, drains on its own, is turned out after at least 20 hours and dry-salted. It ripens at 13 °C or below and is washed at least four times, for a total of at least 21 days from renneting.
| Whole cow milk from the area, collected within 48 hours of the oldest milking | [soum-cdc] |
| Commercial lactic cultures or whey, when the milk is matured before renneting (optional) | [soum-cdc] |
| Animal rennet | [soum-cdc] |
| Dry salt | [soum-cdc] |
| Water or salted water, for washing the rind | [soum-cdc] |
| Starter | optional commercial lactic cultures or whey |
Total time across the recorded steps: 22 days
What changes: Lactic cultures or whey go into the whole cow milk
If the milk is matured, it is seeded before renneting with commercial lactic cultures or whey.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Whole cow milk, sometimes seeded with commercial lactic cultures or whey, is set at 22–32 °C with animal rennet and left to curdle for at least 8 hours, so the curd is mainly lactic. The curd is ladled into moulds, drains on its own, is turned out after at least 20 hours and dry-salted. It ripens at 13 °C or below and is washed at least four times, for a total of at least 21 days from renneting. Made in 6 steps over 22 days. The longest step, ripen and wash the rind, takes at least 21 days (Ministère de l'agriculture 2016) and runs at up to 13 °C (Ministère de l'agriculture 2016). Lactic cultures (commercial strains or whey) that sour the milk; the specification names no species does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | at least 21 daysSet[soum-cdc][soum-sd] | Ripen and wash the rind |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | up to 13 °CSet[soum-cdc] | Ripen and wash the rind |
| Acidity | pH up to 4.7Set[soum-cdc] | Ladle into moulds |
Made from a slow lactic curd (at least 8 hours to set) rather than a quick rennet curd, and its rind is washed with plain or salted water.
The specification does not say whether the milk must be raw or heat-treated. French Wikipedia says the cheese is made from raw or pasteurised milk. The CDC says people at higher risk, including pregnant women, people 65 or older and people with weak immunity, should avoid raw-milk cheese unless it is heated to 165 °F (74 °C) or until steaming hot. The specification bans freezing the milk, curd or fresh cheese and bans modified-atmosphere storage during ripening.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The specification links the cheese to the Cistercian abbey of Pontigny (founded 1117) and cites a description of its making in Bérillon's 'La Bonne Ménagère Agricole' (1889).
