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Cereals and bread from Roman Italy

Panis Picenus (Picenum soaked-alica bread)

Pliny the Elder says Picenum was famous for a bread it invented from alica, groats of husked and broken zea wheat. The meal was soaked for nine days, kneaded on the tenth with raisin juice into long rolls, and baked in earthen pots until they broke; the hard bread was eaten soaked, usually in milk with honey. This entry is a reconstruction from that text.

Fully documentedCereals and bread9 days

Recipe

No fixed amounts recordedPliny gives no amounts. This is a reconstruction from his description only.
Alica meal[pliny-18-27]
Water, for the nine-day soak[pliny-18-27]
Raisin juice[pliny-18-27]
Milk and honey, to soak the baked bread before eating[pliny-18-27]

Total time across the recorded steps: 9 days

Start
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Close-up: water moving into a grain

What changes: The coarse alica meal soaks in water for nine days

Step 1 of 4
Soak the alica meal
Time
9 days
Reported
Temperature
Not documented
Salt
None given
Acidity
Not documented

Output: soaked meal.

Flavour
Not documented
Texture
Not documented
Colour
Not documented

Microbes at work in this step

Not documented for this step.

Method

Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source

At a glance

Pliny the Elder says Picenum was famous for a bread it invented from alica, groats of husked and broken zea wheat. The meal was soaked for nine days, kneaded on the tenth with raisin juice into long rolls, and baked in earthen pots until they broke; the hard bread was eaten soaked, usually in milk with honey. This entry is a reconstruction from that text. Made in 4 steps over 9 days. The longest step, soak the alica meal, takes 9 days (Pliny the Elder 1856).

Key numbers
Main step9 daysReported[pliny-18-27][pliny-latin-18]Soak the alica meal

What makes this one different

Unlike Roman breads raised with a kept piece of sour dough or a must leaven, panis Picenus was made from meal soaked for nine days and sweetened with raisin juice, then baked hard inside pots.

Related ferments

Variants

  • Apicius's salacattabiaThree pieces of Picentian bread layered in a mould with chicken, sweetbreads, cheese, pine nuts, cucumbers and shallots, covered with jellied broth and chilled in snow. Vehling's note ties this bread to Picentia, a town in lower Italy, so it may not be the Picenum bread.

Safety

This is a reconstruction from Pliny, who gives no safety guidance. He has the meal soaked nine days and the rolls baked in earthen pots until the pots break. He says the bread is eaten only after soaking, most often in milk sweetened with honey, and does not give that soak as a safety step.

History and sources

Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made

Pliny the Elder, Natural History XVIII.27 (Bostock and Riley numbering), says Picenum still kept its old reputation for this bread, which it was the first to invent (XVIII.105-106 in the Latin section numbering). Apicius's De re coquinaria names a Picentian bread as an ingredient; whether it is the same bread is not certain.

Starter
The sources we found do not say how its fermentation begins.
Microbes
No study we found names its microbes.
Temperature, salt and pH
The sources we found give no temperature, salt or pH figure for any of its steps.
  1. [pliny-18-27] Pliny the Elder, The Natural History, Book XVIII, chapter 27 (The method of making bread) and chapter 29 (Alica), translated by J. Bostock and H.T. Riley, London, H.G. Bohn, 1856; Project Gutenberg eBook 61113 (Volume 4 of 6)book
  2. [pliny-latin-18] Pliny the Elder, Naturalis Historia, Book XVIII (Latin text), LacusCurtius, ed. B. Thayer; section 106 (durat sua Piceno in panis inventione gratia ex alicae materia)book
  3. [apicius-vehling] Apicius, Cookery and Dining in Imperial Rome, translated by J.D. Vehling, recipe 126 (Apician jelly, salacattabia Apiciana); Project Gutenberg eBook 29728book