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Starters and koji from Okinawa
Black koji is steamed rice grown with Aspergillus luchuensis, a black-spored koji mould that makes a lot of citric acid. In the Okinawan trial conditions it is grown for 42 hours, at 40 °C first and cooler at the end, so the acid builds up. Awamori is brewed from black rice koji alone, and the acid keeps spoilage bacteria out of the warm mash.
| Rice, steamed | Thai rice is used for the rice koji in the Okinawan trial-brew list[oki2021] |
| Black koji seed (Aspergillus luchuensis) | Awamori under the Ryukyu designation must use only rice koji grown with A. luchuensis[nta-ryukyu][oki2021] |
| Starter | defined-culture: black koji spores (Aspergillus luchuensis; A. awamori in older literature) |
Total time across the recorded steps: 42 h
What changes: Rice is steamed and cooled
Output: steamed rice, cooled for seeding.
Microbes at work in this step
Not documented for this step.
Measured measured in a studySet fixed by a specification or tested recipeReported one source reports itTypical a general value, not sourced for this fermentUnconfirmed not yet checked against a source
Black koji is steamed rice grown with Aspergillus luchuensis, a black-spored koji mould that makes a lot of citric acid. In the Okinawan trial conditions it is grown for 42 hours, at 40 °C first and cooler at the end, so the acid builds up. Awamori is brewed from black rice koji alone, and the acid keeps spoilage bacteria out of the warm mash. Made in 5 steps over 42 h. The longest step, mix and cool so citric acid builds up, takes 22 h (Okinawa Prefecture 2021) and runs at 25–35 °C (Hayashi K 2021). Aspergillus luchuensis does most of the fermenting.
| Main step | 22 hReported[oki2021] | Mix and cool so citric acid builds up |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 25–35 °CReported[hayashi2021][oki2021] | Mix and cool so citric acid builds up |
Black koji makes much more citric acid than the yellow koji of sake, so the mash stays sour and safe in Okinawa's hot, humid climate. Its black colour is the main thing white koji, an albino mutant picked out of it, lacks.
The citric acid the black koji makes keeps the mash pH low and holds back microbes other than the yeast. Black koji belongs to Aspergillus section Nigri, which also holds A. niger; some A. niger strains make ochratoxin or fumonisin, but Hayashi et al. state that the three koji fungi used for shochu and awamori cannot make mycotoxins.
Every number is labelled with how it is known. How this atlas is made
The scientific name Aspergillus luchuensis comes from Ryukyu, and the mould is named a "national fungus" (kokkin). Kagoshima shochu makers brought black koji over from Okinawa around 1910. Molecular work showed the old name A. awamori covered several species, and the awamori mould was renamed A. luchuensis.
